Dreaded wheel bearings..

[black runner]

Honda, FNQ hit the nail on the head. You need to knock the cups out, alternatively tapping with a solid no flex dolly/punch at 180deg from the previous strike. Don't just belt the crap out of it, but feel the response of the hammer as you go - you can feel if the cup has kicked off its axis in the hub. A single sharp tap on either side always works and the cups should be out in less than a minute. If you used a pin punch that was too thin it would have just bounced.

To reinstall the cups use a press - either make one using a 5t hydraulic bottle jack or buy one from one of the auto stores and, after pressing the new cups in as far as you can using a flat plate, use a set of old cups (not the cones/race) to seat the new ones home as Benny said. If you are going to service your own bearings it really pays to get yourself a press and save potential damage to your new bearings.

Cheers

[honda900]

The actual bearings and seals were really not such an issue to get out.

It was the cones that were the real source of my dramas.

It should be a straight forward job and I have done it 3-4 times before and always have struggled getting the cones in and out.

I thought that there must be some special tool that fitters used to install the cones but it appears not.

From now on given that the lazy hub is $30.00 with cones already installed and a bearing set, I dont think I will bother trying to get the cones out (throw away society) not my favourite. not shy of doing the work.

Regards
Honda

[phewy]

Have always used a large, good quality tang thru screwdriver to slowly work old damaged races out of caravan hubs/drums with no problems ever over 20 years of almost daily bearing services. In saying that, we never use the same to install new races. We have a specialized tool to do that. Like these ones below...except our single one is one piece and machined to suit both inner and outer races of the ford slimline and holden variety. About half a dozen single gentle whacks and she's seated all nice and square. A smear of grease before hand helps along.

[honda900]

Mate thats exactly what I am looking for..

Regards
HOnda.

[black runner]

Standard tapered roller bearing terminology to avoid a bit of confusion:

Cone assembly = cage and rollers (race) complete with inner bearing surface. The cone assy slides onto the stub axle.

Cup = outer bearing surface which is pressed into the hub.

The two major parts of the bearing assy referred to as cup and cone.

Cheers

[phewy]

Good point black runner.
A cup indeed it is in the hub.

[Cheech]

I agree it may be that you were tapping too close to the previous tap. 180 or 120 degrees intervals is the go. I have never had trouble getting the cones out. Even done them on the side of the road.

I also insert the new ones by using a ground down old cone. Just grind a bit off the outer surface of an old cone, (so it easily slides in and out) and hit that to knock in your new cones. Works a treat.

[Noelm]

agree with most of what has been said, from the proper description af what a "cup and cone" is, to hitting it from either side (180 degrees) it should not be too hard, of course we are talking an item here that has been dunked in salt water, probably be over heated/over loaded, all sorts of not designed for stuff, but it is a dirty job, that should be able to be done on the side of the Road, with a few ill designed tools that is kept in the average Car, that said, a press is the way to go, but that is not too common either in a home workshop or the side of the Road.

[garman1]

I have just finished renewing all the bearings on my trailer too and this time I decided to try durahubs, I like the idea of being able to check the oil level for one and to see if any water has got into the bearings (oil goes milky)............... The axles looked ok with no pitting where the seal sits so all should be good with the new system.

Oh I have a spare set of ford durahub seals if anyone wants em, let me know your address and I'll post em to you...it seems such a waste to throw a good set of seals away.( In a durahub kit you get holden and ford seals, mine are holden)

[STUIE63]

My thoughts are use the welder if they are hard to get out and hit at 180 degrees to the last hit . if you are going to use an old cup then use a soft hammer I always use a brass dolly myself .don't ever hit hardened tools onto hardened metal as this is asking for shards flying off and embedding themselves into you . safety glasses are also a must for this job
Stuie

[Mindi]

Is this because of imported cheap hubs with bearings prefitted..? I know at least some of the Bris trailer mfrs do this. The job has always been a bit of a hassle for me over the years with Aust hubs and Jap bearing sets but they have always come out with a softer pipe drift and a bit of patience. I think whacking it at 180deg increments is more likely to bind it that smaller steps around the cone.As an amateur I dont even understand the weld point..?..but I guess you are throwing the cone away so the weld on the face doesnt matter....mmm..good thinking .
I was hoping someone was going to come up with a magic tool or non welding approach also.

[Argle]

Phewy has got the "magic" tools you are all talking about! Get yourself a set of bearing drivers and you will be home and hosed!!!

Cheers
Scott

[STUIE63]

Is this because of imported cheap hubs with bearings prefitted..? I know at least some of the Bris trailer mfrs do this. The job has always been a bit of a hassle for me over the years with Aust hubs and Jap bearing sets but they have always come out with a softer pipe drift and a bit of patience. I think whacking it at 180deg increments is more likely to bind it that smaller steps around the cone.As an amateur I dont even understand the weld point..?..but I guess you are throwing the cone away so the weld on the face doesnt matter....mmm..good thinking .
I was hoping someone was going to come up with a magic tool or non welding approach also.

Mindi if you weld on the inside of the cup one run right around then as the weld cools it shrinks the bearing cup and it falls out easily . the cup is going to be replaced anyway . one more thought is to leave the new cups in the freezer overnight as this will make it smaller and be easier to fit
Stuie

[cormorant]

Putting in I use a press when at the garage and if not the correct size plug we also have a few sizes of ground down ( on lathe) cones. We place a coil of soft brazing brass rod between the new bearing cone and the press plug to prevent damage. The rod after a couple gets better as it ends up being a washer just the right size. We use a smear of grease and the press is a old manual lever one and in one movement we seat the cone all the way ( ona good day) .

By the side of the road I have used the same plug and brass washer with a soft face hammer.

Have a mate without a press who simply has some course threaded bar 2 plates and a couple of nuts. Simply put throught hub with ground race as a plug and brass washer an tighten the nuts wih a ratchet- Roadside press- simple as.


Removing them - have used a bearing puller kit before and even a slide hammer but generally a lump hammer and a brass drift is quicker than getting it out. 4-6 hits and they are out

Side of the road it is hammer and drift. You can get 10 time more force on them if the drift has a slight bevel on it and I go 0 deg 180deg 90deg and 270 deg working around the cone to keep them flat and not wedged in.

Can't warn people enough about being careful of shards so wear glasses and have seen them in fingers , legs, forearms and a cheek. Often the helper ( that would be the wife or kids if on the roadside) watching not the idiot hitting them together that cops it. Do not ever hit hardened material together as the other blokes have said.

[GBC]

Out - screwdriver.

In - seat with a block of hardwood (hit wood with hammer) - then use a socket to finish the job.

To note : I recently had a cheap chinese bearing split a cast 10" braked hub(alko) on a camper trailer. No water no salt. As the set warmed up the bearing couldn't crush the axle so it split the hub.

They are not machined as precisely and are generally oversize by a poofteenth - hence the above result.

I'd imagine that's why you're having the trouble with the removals because if it takes more than a screwdriver and hammer you've got issues.