PHP Warning: Use of undefined constant VBA_SCRIPT - assumed 'VBA_SCRIPT' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in ..../includes/functions_navigation.php(802) : eval()'d code on line 1
weave setup
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: weave setup

  1. #1

    weave setup

    i ,m just wondering how poeple set up their threads when they start a weave. do you run your threads from loom to loom or do you run from 1 loom to a tape setup[ to hold in place]
    what kind of looms do you use and are they user freindly?
    apart from helping me i do hope it can supply some info to those who want to do a weave and dont know where/how to start
    thanks guys and girls
    ian

  2. #2
    Ausfish Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2001

    Re: weave setup

    Ian

    The most efficient way to set up your loom is measuring how long your strands need to be. Always add at least 3 or 4 inches to what ever length you come up with. You don’t want t set your looms to far apart because that will require longer design threads. Always start your threads on the blank just before the weave is meant to start. Stick all the threads down in one go with tape and put a couple of layers on just to make sure. From here you need to pack the loom. Pick number 1 thread out and load in the loom, pick out the second thread and load in the loom marked 2. Keep going until you are done. Always keep the threads on your right mildly tight and the threads on your left loose. Pack as you go but again not to hard. My loom is a home one I designed many years ago, still going strong.

    Stu

  3. #3

    Re: weave setup

    Ian,
    How I do it depends a little on which loom I'm using, but assuming you're using a vee type loom as opposed to a wonder weaver, here's how I do it.
    FIrst I attach my looms to the blank using zip ties. Most times I'll wrap masking tape on the grips to stop damage and by reversing it help hold the looms in place.
    Depending on the grip setup I may put some EVA under the outer end so that the loom is angled down to the blank. Otherwise you may find your threads want to ride down either side which makes it harder to keep them straight. Sometimes I'll wrap tape over the end of the loom to stop this.
    I put the looms as far apart as I can comfortably work with. It uses more thread but the angles are less. Your choice here.
    Before I start laying threads I put tape down backwards on the blank just inside both looms if a single layer and just the left if it's multi layer.

    Work out which thread number is going to be the vertical centre of your weave and run a thread directly from one loom to the other in the appropriate slot. Then make sure that this thread is parallel and centred on the blank.

    Once I have the looms positioned I will then start laying threads down by first putting them into the right loom, then sticking them onto the tape on either side and then going on to the left loom before cutting the thread.
    I work from the centre out and try to put the threads as closely together as possible.
    Once I have completed a layer (or if the tape stops sticking properly) I will wrap more tape over and repeat the process.
    I do not wrap any more tape over the right side though as it would be near impossible to get off each layer before you start.
    What you're trying to do is give yourself the best start possible.
    The less you have to move threads as you go or when you're finished, the better.

    Once I have all my threads laid down, I then put a zip tie around the threads on the left of where my weave will start and carefully snug it down.
    You can use the zip tie to help you gather the threads as closely together on the blank as possible by gently rocking it back & forth as you tighten.
    Don't over do it! You just want them together, not all jammed on top of one another. Once again, the more closely aligned each thread on each respective layer is to it's counterpart(s) on other layers, the better. i.e. All #25 threads should be vertically aligned as closely as possible.

    Once the zip tie is tight, I cut the excess thread from the left side and begin my weave.

    The best way to keep things tight and packed is to do it as you go.
    Each time you pick up a thread from the right, give it a gentle tighten and ensure it is parallel with the blank before taking it over to the left.
    You don't really want any tension on the threads in the left loom other than the bare amount necessary to hold them back straight. Any more will pull your wrap thread out of alignment.
    After every four or five rotations, gently align any threads that have started angling down or up the blank. You will find that once they have a couple threads wrapped over they will stay in place.
    Likewise if you follow the ritual of tightening every time you pick up from the right, when you get to the end the weave will be quite tight already as it will have been done in sections.

    As far as loom go, I have both the standard Vee type and a wonder weaver.
    The wonder weaver is ridiculously expensive an whilst it's great for large weaves that go right around the blank, or for cases where you want to do weaves on two axis at once, it's not necessary.

    You can easily make your own that will be more than serviceable from some PVC and high density foam. The weave I'm doing at the moment I'm using one of Doc Ski's looms. It's 82 threads and five layers. Doc's looms handle that no problems. If you don't want to make your own, I believe Ross has them in stock.

    A couple of tools I've found very useful when laying down threads (and in weaving) are.
    1: An artists trowel thingy with a 45 degree head. This allows me to push the thread into the tape without destroying the glue with my fingers.

    2: A crotchet hook

    3: A range of trowel thingies for pushing threads around. Make sure none have sharp edges!! You'll be pissed WHEN you slip and cut a thread half way through a ten hour weave

    In the pics you can see that on this rod I have the luxury of leaving plenty of thread on the left side. If you don't leave enough you can't hang onto it when tightening.

    I try to tighten one thread at a time while holding both sides so it doesn't pull through.
    If you allow metallics to move through too much they get damaged.

    At the end of the day you'll find what works for your own setup.
    Cheers,
    Owen


    The whole world's mad save thee & me (but I'm not too sure about thee)

  4. #4

    Re: weave setup

    thanks for the replies guys. owen i,m doing basically what you do without the zip ties[ damned good idea that], but i still feel i,m doing something wrong at the end of the day.
    you are right about the prices for the wonder weaver shit they are dear
    but like all good things i,ll work it out. thanks for your replies again
    cheers ian

  5. #5

    Re: weave setup

    Owen....I'm wondering how come you can spell crowshay correctly...Hmmmm..
    All jokes aside... all good stuff...I hope you have it in tutorial notes for when you have difficult students to teach....
    Just for your edification... my crowshay needle is in fact referred to as a thoughtfully modified spear tip...the original of which was designed by the the men of Bandar of Phantom fame....I know...I know...it sure looks like a crowshay hook...in fact it looks alot like the ones you can buy at spotlight....but mine has grip tape on the handle...
    Can't wait till you teach me to weave....should be fun...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •