Engine flush additive

[BM]

The heads mate normally.

[mikeyh]

I used a product made by Volvo called neutrasalt when I had a sterndrive powered flybridge boat. Probably similar to SaltX.....
This neutrasalt injection system was fitted to the boat (she was in the water) and the procedure was (at the end of the day before you shut down) to depress a switch for 45 seconds....and allow neutrasalt to be injected into the raw water side of the engine so it coated all the areas exposed to SW..ie heat exchanger, risers and manifolds. Seemed to work pretty well...when I pulled risers off they were in pretty good condition and instead of having exposed rust the insides of the risers appeared to be as though they had been varnished. Check it out online. From memory it was about $100 for 4.5L. Would be an easy job to make a T piece ito your muffs and a small tap to turn on after you have done main flush.

cheers, Mike

[spears]

One thing that has been suggested was to flush out cooling system with car radiator cleaner.

By putting the leg into a container like a plastic rubbish bin.
Using a 4 litre bucket and count how many liters gets poured in to the bin to cover the water intake of the outboard then work out how many bottles of motor flushing agent gets poured into rubbish bin at the correct ratio.
Run outboard and it clears out the muck..

What do you guys think of that idea..??

[FNQCairns]

I think the 'salt' most speak about is the same stuff internally that we see sometimes on the lower leg paintwork as a result of the exhaust gallery being nearby inside.

Geology says rocks and minerals are formed under pressure and heat, sometimes largely pressure only and sometimes just heat mainly.

The white substance we see formed internally and externally is due to heat, if an outboard ran at 20deg C then at worst we would only ever see corrosion once exposed for long enough.

My uneducated take is a 'salt' (a mineral, not sodium chloride) it forms due to heat only, this 'salt' because it was formed by heat cannot be passively removed, only by mechanical abrasion or chemical attack like with acid which by the way is one of the scientific keyed steps toward identifying this particular mineral if positive a id is unknown.

I also think that this mineral when it has been formed by heat and has coated most internal surfaces that it promotes cation exchange between it's self and the cast aluminium it coats, effectively corroding the aluinium insitu underneath.

This I have seen many times trying to save a part, I can dissolve/abraid the mineral layer away only to have the underlying aluminium flake and crumble.

The above is why I think the salt products do not work in any way inside an outboard, for sure they would work on any surface not exposed to generated heat.

Sodium chloride dissolves almost instantly with water, salt in its dried natural form has a crystalline structure with gross surface area, it will just wash away in quick time with fresh water as if it was never there, if it is not there it cannot promote corrosion, salt products cannot protect a surface from what is not there and I believe it cannot protect that surface from this mineral formed under heat either.

The would need to come clean and tell the mechanism they use to make it work, as it is outside of natural laws to believe it would work, there is not much new out there except the packaging these days.

my 2c worth

cheers fnq

[cobiaman]

mate acid is also used to clean the salt build up in pool chlorinators ,so it might work.

mate, that is calcium build up not salt, but acid will eat salt as well

[lunchcutter]

hay the best stuff i have heard is macs