Hi Rado
In your situation used to jack it off the ground, fit it all together as it should be, tighten up nut; holding spanner close to the nut so as to lessen torque force.
Then back off nut 1/4 turn and attempt to fit in split pin. If it wont go in, back off nut until split pin goes in.
Loose is heaps safer than too tight. Never had any hassels doing it as above.
Cheers
Chimo
What could go wrong.......................
Listen to Clee....I used to always pack grease in until I got the message and also used to run a small lateral preload..like moderate spin= 1 rev of wheel only but now I run first pin slot not preloaded and only pack the bearings themselves well and a little in the caps.
Personally I have found best quality rear seals and lauching cold where possible much more effective than Buddies at keeping water out...I am unconvinced about BBs but wouldnt run an argument about it
Ouch! does the nut hold both the inner and outer tapered bearing in place.
For example if the outer bearing where to slip off the hub would the nut hold it in place, or would it grind on the nut and shear the split pin, then your wheel falls off. Not desirable.
You might be better off looking for new better sized (thickness)castle nuts, then fit washers as well.
The inner face of the nut completely covers the inner race , the small space created by the rollers and the lip of the outer race have no contact. I am not sure whether bearing design allows it to maintain integrity under lateral load if the entire outer face of the bearing is not "seated" if you know what I mean.
Sorry if this sounds stupid Im not very mechanically educated.
Rando... I replaced hubs + bearings on my old trailer and found that the split pin hole wasnt even visible and seen bearing cup wouldnt go on as far as it should, after removing all the new gear and cleaning the shaft I found lots of very small chip marks and scratche's and dents on the face where the bearings should go, looked like someone had trouble getting an old set of bearings off before I bought it all,. what I done then was grab some wet n dry sand paper and smoothed off all the dents and stuff and found that the bearings went on a whole heap better, so much better in fact that the the castle nut now goes about 2 turns past the split pin hole.
And yes you should use a waser between castle nut + bearing.
And yes I too have heard of too much grease being worse but only in high RPM machinery.... not trailer hub's, maybe in truck trailers because of the excess weight but in all honesty if you check your trailer at regular interval's throughout your trip for things like heat build up and wobbly thing's etc (like you should) I really cant see how too much grease can hurt.
Bretty
One tip when seating cups is to listen to the tenor of each strike when driving it home, a seated cup is unmistakable in sound. The driver you are using will also buck back more with each strike once seated.
I have found from doing this lots to trailers, then useing them from cradle to the grave that I can be a lot rougher than I would normally be with most things mechanical without fear of a problem as a result.
It was a relatively painful job the way I use to do it, live and learn, one thing though the work area MUST be spotlessly clean, one grain of dirt can ruin a good day-one day.
Grease I fill as full as I can, taking absolute care to fill the rear bearing areas chocker! no air bubble exists between rear bearing and rear bearing seal this has proven over time to give the longest lasting results.
I think if I were repacking a D9 excavator or the like the bearing handbook would be correct and packing chocka, not a good long term choice.
Automotive seals forever if dunking, standard marine seals I will not use even if given to me.
O yeah I also smear a goodly amount of grease behind the hub where the stub exits and the seal meets the stub.
Always if unsure, seat the bearing looser rather than tighter, you can always come back to it a month later and nip it again or pull it apart and check for an installation fault as routine, if you go too tight the memory may fade as well as the bearing far too early, as an unpleasant surprise.
cheers fnq
Rando,
I have changed lots of wheel bearings and other bearings on farm machinery etc and have never had a situation where the bearings don't have a washer between the bearing and the nut. Are you sure that you have the correct bearing with matching cup for that axle. If the cup isn't the right one for bearing then that bcould be your problem or maybe the bearing and cup are the wrong ones for your axle. Otherwise the cup may not be far enough into the housing it may need to be pressed in. Sometimes it just requires a good thump with a hammer on a sleeve or socket that is slightly smaller than the cup so that is does not bind. I often use the old cup to get it started and square then use a socket with a flat bar on top of that to protect the socket.
Cheers,
Maccas
Hello again everyone.
A big thanks for all your advise.
I used the old cup to seat the new ones.
I took the whole hub etc to a bearing shop near here and they gave me the appropriate sets(japanese) and I am pretty sure I drove them home, i didnt pussyfoot at all.
Not to say I was cavaliar about damage to the cup face ,,,Then I dove the old cup out again.
I have adjusted the grease in the hub, my main fear was blowing the seal, but I wanted to make sure there was plenty of lube.
As I said before, I filled the hub with grease from the back then slid it onto the axle ,my aim was to prevent any water getting in.
We have decided to go tomorrow now, so maybe I can get a nut and washer combo that will fit.
Can anyone suggest where I can achieve this , I am on the inner northside
Once again thanks for the help as I had decided to go without the washer , You have turned that around and perhaps saved me some grief....
Good on you all for the time and patience, to help me out.
rando
Rando.... go to supercheap auto now before it close's and you should be able to grab a nut + washer combo there or one or the other, Take an old set in with you to make sure you get what your after, good luck in Iluka and leave some fish for me!!!
Bretty
Originally Posted by rando
Rando
Thats not Etec grease is it...?
Take it easy Mindi, dont start the Etec Debate here!!!!
Bretty
Supercheap dont have the nuts and washers I need , anyone else got a suggestion???
Rando, obviously your in trouble here, so I would pull that bearing out clean the shaft up and use emery paper to remove any burs on the tapered axle shaft what ever you like to call it, make it smooth.
Have you got the right bearing Holden ? Ford. Pre HK, Or HQ holden ? Size does matter.
Then when you put the bearings back on bang them hard home with a suitable sized socket, you wil know by the sound when she's seated hard.
As mentioned by FNQ,
To be honest and harsh, wheel bearings are it is not rocket science, lets face it the wheel was invented many years ago, all it needs is adeqate lube tolerance for expansion and a smooth bearing surface, and a descent retaining nut and washer, hell it was made out of wood years ago.
I check my wheel bearing by sound if you put a screw driver against the axle place your ear against that then you can here any roughness or distorsion when you spin the wheel, if it binds makes a noise replace the bearings easy.
If no noise and some lateral movement when pulling the wheel side to side then no further investigation is required, even better.
When pumping grease in to bearing buddies only pump enough grease so as the little plate behind the grease nipple just wobbles, any more and you can pop the rear seal.
That there grease gun can pump over 3000 psi remember that! it's got awsome power over a a seal, go easy on the grease gun and bearing buddies.
Pulled one of the hubs , cleaned the axle with two grades of sandpaper,
Lots of pitting on the taper.
Gave the bearing cups a few bars of "You WILL remember me"with a big drift , no movement.....
Bearing back, washer on , NO F.....G split pin hole.The washer is only about 1mm.
where can i get a shim that will do the job?????
The hub sit up hard on the rear seal, so I figure the back bearing is where it should be, It can only be the front bearing that is not seated but ,I gave it some so Im satisfied its home, sounded home too.
Has to be the wrong nut?????Is there different gauge nuts for axles???
What have i missed???
Boy am I pissed off, This should be an easy job as Roughasguts said ,,,,not rocket science.
Rando, what blades you got for your grinder ? you got a thin one that can cut down a bit deeper in to the castle nuts groove ?
I know it's rough, but no integrity on the nut should be lost, but if your in a bind I would rather do this than go with out a washer.
Rando, do you get what I mean ? cut down with your angle grinder 2mm deeper in to the turret of the castle nut where the split pin goes! it should only take a few seconds, and you can use the washer as well.
Should be a easy fix.
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