Gday folks
Has anybody used u40 rod bond? Looking for any good or bad info.
Dave.
I used it when building rods for another company when it was first released. 90% of all game rods we built up using this glue come back with loose reel seats, tips and grips. We where not given the opportunity to play around with this glue first, we had it thrust upon us. We always mixed glue meticulously along with spreading it on very liberally but rods kept coming back. We found that the glue didn’t go hard as other epoxy based products do, its intension/design was in fact to stay softish so it flexed with the rod. No when this glue got warm out in the sun it became even softer again. We went back to our old system
Stu .
I can tell you from years of experiance, stick with Epoxy glue mate. Im not sure exactly how long ago it come out maybe 8 or 9 years ago. Last time I played with it which was last year it still hadent changed. By all means use it if you want, if its a light rod then it maybe ok, but in having said that I still wouldnt use on any tip at all.
Stu
Yeah, I've used U40 Rod Bond for two rods in the last three months, and so far so good!!! It's quite thick when you mix it compared to epoxy, so you want to make sure that there are no air bubbles between the glue and the blank. Apart from that, very easy to use and seems to work well for me.
Anyway, I've got a near full 2Oz set that I'm not going to use much. If you're in Brissie and want to borrow it to see for yourself, send me a pm.
Hey Stu, since you didn't say that it's absolute crap, I think that it's as close to a compliment as you can get!
Stuart I'm interested in what your methods were when you used it. Did you pour metho in the grips? could that have effected it? But that would not explain the reel seats Hmmm It's just that on the rodbuilding.org site I've done a search and there's a hell of a lot of people that swear by it. Some bloke even says not one failure in 8 or so years. But given your many years in the industry I've really taken on board your advice,, hence the confusion.
I've also done a bit of reading into "Water break free" on the surface of the blank. www.rodbuilding.org/library/waterfree.html
Do you know what type of failure happened to those rods Cohesive or Adhesive? If it was Adhesive failure then perhaps it would seem to suggest it might have something to do with water break free perhaps.
Dave.
Thanks for the offer mate but I've got 2oz myself and now feeling a little apprehensive about using it on my next project.
I was hoping that because Stuart didn't get the opportunity to test this stuff that one of the methods used on their previous rods didn't translate over to the U40.
Dave.
I’m not going to start bagging it because people are having success with it. I’m not the be all and end all in rod building and I would never make that claim. Perhaps they have changed the formula, I can’t be certain. I haven’t kept up with what is or has happened to U40 products. I didn’t mind their coating but they went and changed that for resone. All I can say is the glue was letting go of the alloy reel seat, looking back I don’t think the glue liked smooth surfaces like that found inside alloy reel seats. But when you’re under the gun to get 150 rods glued up and tipped every day it can be very hard to do the things that should be done.
This is why I left the company, to much cost cutting. We even had to work out in dollars as to how much glue had to be used on every rod. It maybe worth trying it again as I they may have changed the formula. Just remember to key every thing up so the glue grabs onto it.
Stu
Some reel seats are very smooth inside while other are quite rough. It would pay to check each one out.
Stu
One only has to feel how hot a reel seat gets (especially a black alloy reel seat) when it has sat in the sun for a while. When I am rebuilding and old rod and the owner wants to keep the reel seat I pour boiling water over it and 95% of the time it will soften the glue enough so you can break it off from the blank and boiling water is only 100 degrees C at the most. Although I have used Rod Bond in the past I don't anymore and I agree with Stuart that there is a lot better stuff on the market. One thing that had appeal with it was it is more of a paste then a thick liquid so to speak so it is probably a little easier to use but the others are not hard to use by any means.
great stuff guys... I too have just purchased some U40 RodBond ( watched the same vid on Mudhole)... I actually glued up 4 blanks with it yesterday before I read this post....I'm hoping it will be ok tho... they are 6-8kg barra sticks with fuji ACS reel seats. Can I ask Owen... what other products are out there in the paste form that appear ok?....
Up to now I have been using K106 araldite...24 hr..it's been good just messy bloody stuff... I fish mostly around the Mackay area so hot days are the norm..
Thanks for the heads up Stuart .... it's all good info...
You could ask, but I wouldn't know my arse from my elbow when it comes to glue.
I've been using Araldite because works, but the price is astronomical. Especially when you come back from holidays and find thet the heat has caused it to expand and the tops have split and let all the glue out
Roz put us on to some stuff from Fiberglass International. After looking at their product range, I'm pretty comfortable changing. Especially after she's already been the guinnea pig and reckons it's good stuff.
It makes sense that the marine industry would have products suitable for glueing aluminium to other products in extreme environments.
Cheers,
Owen
The whole world's mad save thee & me (but I'm not too sure about thee)
Dave,
Have a look at the ES 045 series here.
http://www.fgi.com.au/files/images/s...ns/Epoxies.pdf
It was the caps on the glue tubes that split.
I've never had any fail on a job.
Four tubes of araldite down the gurgler.
Cheers,
Owen
The whole world's mad save thee & me (but I'm not too sure about thee)