So I guess an air leak is out of the question hey
So let me see.. only runs on choke.. is that too much air or not enough fuel
So I guess an air leak is out of the question hey
So let me see.. only runs on choke.. is that too much air or not enough fuel
Garry
Retired Honda Master Tech
So if it's an Air leak on the engine side of the carby it still not enough fuel hey???
Garry
Retired Honda Master Tech
Hi FNQ.
The engine defintiely revs a little higher, but more consistent, smoother and actually sounds like a 110HP motor now..
It was an obseravtion I made as an afterhthought - crud in filter/separator (and not water). I have not run the donk since I flushed the filter out though...
Thanks boys!
SPlash
way way way back, I suggested that this Motor needs a PROPER service by an 'old time" OMC Mechanic to just get it back to fully standard tune and a known good state, so in the light of the pages and pages of stuff been done on this Motor, a trip to the "Doctors" would probably have paid for itself 20 times over by now, I do not for one minute suggest that home repairs are not to be done, BUT if it has been a drama for so long then continued "tinkering" will never get it fully operational, and may even cause a Major failure from a lean burn condition eventually!
Thanks Noel.
I will do that now- although it won't be with an "OMC" mechanic - just a standard marine mechanic - no choice up here in Gove.
As I am now confident I have tinkered enough to get the donk up to a satisfactory basic level of performance - a mechanic can now fine tune the beast.
Splash
Hope your not trying to have a go at me.
Not sure I under stand the question Garry, If it's an air leak between the carbs and the crankcase manifold side, then you will probably get back firing. And sure it won't suck the fuel through that well either but it will also be a lean mix, and that ain't good for the tops of pistons.
If it's an airleak between the fuel tank and the carbs, that's easy to test and see if fuels getting up to the carbs. All you need to do is after you have drained the carbs pump the primer again and see if it fills the carby float bowls and if the primer stays hard after putting the drain screw in then yep theres little chance of a leak.
Not saying you never get an air leak on the hoses between tha tank and carbs You sure do. That blue plastic braided fuel line goes hard and brittle and can't hold a seal on the brass fittings, once you can twist it on the fittings throw it away and get some new stuff.
The leaking hoses and fittings, and filter seals would be one of the major causes of fuel problems on a boat. But if you feel like testing that remove the hose from your fuel tank and remove the fuel hose that branches off to your carbs.
Then hold your finger over the carb end to block air comming through, and suck on the tank end of the fuel hose once there is some vaccum there hold your tounge on the hose, if it' stays there sucked up by the vaccum then theres no leaks. If it doesn't then theres your problem.
And watch for the gob full of fuel, don't inhall the stuff something similar to bum sucking a smoke.
Cheers Justin.
Last edited by Roughasguts; 17-03-2008 at 11:10 AM.
Got to admit I spent more time looking for me tools or the bolts I just put down than actually fixing something.
But heres a tip with your carbs and the drop zone.
Get an old rag and stuff it under the carb your working on then drape it over the screw drop zone, and over the lip of the out board engine cowl.
Now you got yourself a nice little net to catch your circlips tiny screws and tiny hose clamps.
thanks Guts.