Reply With QuoteDid I deliver to the right place.
Left it leaning up against the palm tree.
Rod.
ok, did u get the measurmentsOriginally Posted by crazboutfishin
Did I deliver to the right place.
Left it leaning up against the palm tree.
Rod.
My dictionary defines green as ‘unripe, immature, undeveloped'. Perfect description.
Most political parties are seen as interested in what the voters think, the Greens are seen as thinking the community should be interested in what they think.
Hey mowerman,
yep ytou got the right place,
thank you very much it is the perfect size for what i need,
thank you again
mason
Go the structural ply fellahs. It is the same as marine ply, the same glue and everything. The only difference is that marine ply has 2 "finished" sides. Have a look at the structural and you will see one side looks great and the other is a bit rough.
As for sealing it, you can go the marine sealers as they do a great job, just a bit (a lot!) pricey. Or you can use any resonable house paint primer and then paint it with a top coat. I used acrylic primer and house paint and it worked a treat.
cheers,
Mark
I went to Bunnings today and they only have standard ply up to 19mm. Apart from Bunnings is there any other major retailer that sells construction ply?
When you say standard ply, not sure what you mean?. Construction or Structural ply is coded as CD (flooring), AD wall cladding, or DD Structural brace (Marine ply is AA). All should be OK, CD would be the pick. I am very surprised that Bunnings did not have any??;
http://www.timber.org.au/NTEP/menu.asp?id=137
As mentioned elsewhere any Hardware store should stock it, also Timber Merchants I guess. Long time since I last bought some!.
Cheers
Dave
Mate if you want a cheap alternative try a mob called RMD at northgate they are suppliers to the construction industry for formwork after a few uses the formwork sheets need to be replaced and you can buy them cheap they are 8 x 4 sheets some with holes but im sure you can cut out around them andsince you are covering it appearance isnt an issue. thay are 20mm thick and made to withstand the pressure of concrete so will be overkill for flooring ..seal the ct edges and away you go
thanks for everyone who posted all finished now
cheers
Cheers
BreamBuster33
Breambuster - got a couple of pics of your project?
Well done on getting through the project. Feels very satisfying I'm sure. I'm 30yo and still get a kick out of doing wheel bearings and little things like that myself.
Cheers.
Ed.
Best way to seal ply is resin coat and let go off then glass over with 225g chopped strand mat. True best practise is to first give the ply a wash with cobalt but I dought you have it available and cobalt, resin and MEPK catalyst are extremely dangerous in inexperienced hands. Do this to both sides and you will never have a problem with rot. Just remember to pre drill any holes for screws and put a bit of sicka into the hole before the screw is inserted. It amazes me how many people just drill into either the laminate of there boat or timber and do not seal the holes, this is a major cuase of rot in floors and transoms.
Exactely Chris,
How good is this ............................?
Muzz
Breambuster, have you got a sounder yet?
Muzz
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Ryan
It makes such a refreshing change to hear young fella's like you getting involved in fishing & boating so early. Wish I had.
There is hope in the world with kids like this, rather than the PS, X-360 generation of couch potatoes.
Chris
im laughing, i've got a 360 in my boat, sittin there waiting for the drag to scream.
best way to fish if u ask me
Great read guys!!! Would be good to see a few pics of your finished product Breambuster
Cheers
Brandon...
Back to the sealing topic, I use Marine Penetrol, three coats and either leave as is or paint with enamel if it is for cosmetic purposes (white boat, white coat etc)
Nothing gets through Penetrol I've found, make sure you give all edges special attention.
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