where to start ?

[abbot_86]

hi all im just after some help to start building my first rod.is it best to start off small or big rods ,or does it not matter?? doess anyone do rodbuilding workshops on the sunshine coast?? also need to know what gear ill need to start collecting? not affraid to spend a bit of coin on it. i just wanna get started. any comments will be appreciated. thanks nick..

[roz]

Hi Nick,

imo one piece fishing rods in 6' to 7' range are easy to manage. First look at what type of fishing you mostly do, and then perhaps build one to suit.

there are a few basic rules that must be followed, but you can build a rod in a couple of days.

we run a rod building weekend from time to time, but that is in Brizzie, would you be able to get yourself along to one of those???

Will be posting up a basic rod build step by step guide....... the next rod building weekend will provide the pics. In the meantime, I will post up some links for you.


http://visualweave.com/cgi/yabb2/YaBB.pl?board=22

http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/buildjig.html



Be warned, rod building can become a bit obsessive!!!

cheers roz

[BenatCoffs]

Wilson do a 7' 6-8kg glass rod kit that includes everything you need to build except thread and epoxies that sells for around $55 at the big tackle store in Coffs. You can buy thread at Spotlight for $4.50 per colour (Mettler Polysheen which is 'A' sized and quite suitable for binding) (Gudebrod 'A' is $9 and Speed 'C' is around $5.50) and finish you can get the cheapest 2oz Erskine kits for around $10 or so. So total cost for an all black bound first rod would be around $80, but keep in mind the epoxies and thread will last a few rods

For mounting the reel seat, favour recently has gone away from using masking tape to build up the blank but in reality for most people this will be adequate. I have stripped rods my father built 30 years ago and there has been no sign of perishment of the tape arbors he used - but of course, there have been failures and for that reason there are better options available. Personally I use either the Pac Bay arbors or fibreglass drywall tape (which is a really open weave and so the epoxy can get down to the blank).

I built heaps on just the standard 'V' block style that is commonly posted on the internet, but recently stepped up to the little fuji rollers. For you though it will be a personal thing and depends on how you feel about different systems. But a start on the V blocks is alway a good place.

'Assembly' of a rod really is extremly straightforward and there is plenty of information on the net of how to do it.

[abbot_86]

thanks roz, i may be able to get to brisbane on a weekend if you have an other workshop. i was thinking of building a 9ft,is there any books or dvds on rod building on the market you know of??

[BenatCoffs]

Tom Kirkman writes a pretty good book on the starting up matter. Sells for around $25. I also have the Ian Miller DVD which is basically just an ad for the Samurai kits and instructional for how to assemble them. What I did get from it is to use a straw to blow the epoxy to remove air bubbles, works a treat!

[abbot_86]

Wilson do a 7' 6-8kg glass rod kit that includes everything you need to build except thread and epoxies that sells for around $55 at the big tackle store in Coffs. You can buy thread at Spotlight for $4.50 per colour (Mettler Polysheen which is 'A' sized and quite suitable for binding) (Gudebrod 'A' is $9 and Speed 'C' is around $5.50) and finish you can get the cheapest 2oz Erskine kits for around $10 or so. So total cost for an all black bound first rod would be around $80, but keep in mind the epoxies and thread will last a few rods

For mounting the reel seat, favour recently has gone away from using masking tape to build up the blank but in reality for most people this will be adequate. I have stripped rods my father built 30 years ago and there has been no sign of perishment of the tape arbors he used - but of course, there have been failures and for that reason there are better options available. Personally I use either the Pac Bay arbors or fibreglass drywall tape (which is a really open weave and so the epoxy can get down to the blank).

I built heaps on just the standard 'V' block style that is commonly posted on the internet, but recently stepped up to the little fuji rollers. For you though it will be a personal thing and depends on how you feel about different systems. But a start on the V blocks is alway a good place.

'Assembly' of a rod really is extremly straightforward and there is plenty of information on the net of how to do it.

thanks ben all your info is very helpful and has given me something to think about, wear do you buy your blanks from, and also is graphite blanks harder to build on than glass??

[roz]

the tackle place at Coff is one of the best in the country and run M...ail O...rder tackle/rod building.... don't know if you get that

The top end blanks are the Hastings (my favourite)etc and Samurai is rolls royce at a holden price.

Ben's advice is one the money.

I've seen the basic kits, they represent good value, if you had to buy each item separately would likely be a lot more expensive.

As for building graphite v's glass, not an issue as far as I'm concerned.

r.

[abbot_86]

thanks roz. ill have to try to get one of those packs. you have both been alot of help. roz im looking forward to the step by step post. nick

[Stuart]

Where on the Sunshine Coast are you mate?.

Stu

[abbot_86]

Where on the Sunshine Coast are you mate?.

Stu

hey stu. mate i live in noosa heads

[Stuart]

Im at Palmwoods just near Nambour, if you need a hand let me know.

Stu

[BenatCoffs]

Im at Palmwoods just near Nambour, if you need a hand let me know.

Stu

Nick, would be a very wise move to take Stuart up on his offer!

I buy blanks from where I need to to get the one I want.

Whether graphite or glass is harder or easier - I reckon glass is easier. One thing you may find with glass blanks though is that if they are 'unsanded' which shows as the ridges from the cellophane wrapping process (For a great video on how blanks are made and subsequently rods built download here - http://www.seekerrods.com/media/seekerdemo.wmv it's BIG but a great watch nonetheless) then the ridges can cause you all sorts of hair tearing problems when you are wrapping. Just means you need to take a bit more time and care to get your wraps neat. The reason I say graphite is not as easy, is because typically for the weight rod you are building, the graphite will be a finer diameter, and rods that are 2mm in diameter for the top 3 guides are as finicky as hell!

[abbot_86]

thanks everyone for all your help. ive got a local bloke to run me through the basics so ill let you know how i go. cheers nick