Attached is a pic of mine installed. I think this is right (please let me know if its not!).
FNQ, I'm no expert but I think if you run some longer fuel line from the outlet of your filter so that you can have the transducer facing like this (ie. fuel flows up into the transducer), it may help your problems. I think the transducer needs to be mounted this way up so that when fuel flows through it, its traveling up, and so gravity minimises the chances of any air building in it.
This is how mine is setup
Ken
Ok thanks for those I see what you all mean now, the transducer arrow must still point toward the engine but the physical mounting of the unit need to be wire up!
Thats a pain in the bum I was proud of my clean looking fuel lines, it worked for 5 hours perfectly this way.
Thanks for all the good advice I simply wouldn't have twigged the arrow had to face up as well as with the flow of fuel without being told 10 times + the 2 pictures.
Will hook it up correctly before the next trip (weekend) and report on if it worked.
Thanks again fnq
FNQ, I was in the same boat (flow down to engine), so I used a longer line & fitted a lazy loop around the fuel filter. i.e. down from outlet, under the filter, back up the other side, through the bulb (flow up too), short piece of hose, then transducer(securely supported to inlet fitting) around the top of the filter & then back down the original route. Sounds weird but actually looks OK, & a lot neater than an 'S' hanging all over the place - my opinion anyway.
Technically, if you don't have vapour or air in your fuel system, the transducer should work in either orientation (so long as it is installed in the direction of flow). Your bulb problem you mentioned could in fact be caused by a leak in the bulb or another fitting, and not a faulty check valve within the bulb, hence allowing the fuel to gradually drain back to the tank. However, obviously best to install flow up, put a new bulb in & check fittings & hose.
On petrol systems i don't bother with double clamps. Always had success with singles but have always used a bit of STAG for a good seal.
Hope you get it sorted easily, but from the weather tonight it looks like you might not be doing any reef trips up there this weekend.
cheers
Originally Posted by FNQCairns
Makes you wonder how many of these are installed incorrectly
Garry
Retired Honda Master Tech
Garry one that I know of
The proof will be in the pudding but it's hard to believe it could make a difference, will see!
cheers fnq
one other thing. i found it made a difference with what fuel line i used.
the black stuff is good and so is the merc grey stuff. i had red stuff but it wasnt so hot at getting a good seal. my ff meter is before the fuel/water filter. i think they retain some air in them so after might be a problem?
the ff meter is before it and seems from pics so are other peoples.
i would add a particle filter first to remove crap from tank. i know the fuel/water filter doesnt get rid of that stuff and im amazed at how much junk builds up in mine, can see it floating round. i think marina fuel holding tanks arent the cleanest.
i cant think of anything else sorry.
Last edited by gar26lw; 04-01-2008 at 03:23 PM.
Good to see your on the right track now with the transducer FNQ.Garry one that I know of
The proof will be in the pudding but it's hard to believe it could make a difference, will see!
cheers fnq
dicko1980
Yeah thanks Dicko, just got in from plumbing the line around the filter so now the transducer is on the other side and with the wire pointing up
When I pumped the bulb to hard when I finished it was working perfectly, but it did that after the backflush as well.
I do feel better about it this time, think you guys may have nailed it for mecheers
Look forward to hearing how your setup testing goes Dicko.
Thanks fnq
I do hope so
Sorry to dissapoint KF.
The thing is still bung, no change from alst time, think I will give up on it, think it needs more flow than what my engine can use to start it spinning as I can pump the bulb at total of 100l/h and it will jump to life. Orientation up/down made no difference in my instance.
Time to force another from my budget I think
cheers fnq
Maybe you have wound it so far back you might have to wait for it to unwind before it will work properly
Garry
Retired Honda Master Tech
I have had a Navman fuel tranducer fitted to an 8084 Navman combo unit and had no problems at all. It is important to fit it after the filter and it must be vertical. Transducer came from overseas and cost around $90. I checked the factory calibration by draining one of the fuel tanks, filling it with a measured volume (80 litres) and then runnig it until it was out. It was as accurate as the fuel pump at the petrol station.
So I am really happy with the performance. Just to be cautious I still run two tanks and keep an eye that teh real volumes match the fuel data record.
Cheers,
Splatt
Mine has been a little strange lately too, especially at the lower RPM.
Worth noting that the 50 2 stroke is at the lower end of the acceptable range.
Sometimes when you take off at a sub-planing speed it registers zero. Fire the engine up a bit and it starts reading, and then you can back off and it will read correctly. Due to this is always says there is more fuel left than there actually is. Mind you, still way better than the factory fuel tank guage which says empty when it's only 1/2 full
I have a Suzuki 140 4 stroke and have never had a problem with my Navman fuel meter. I didn't even calibrate it, I just told it how big my fuel tank was and then told the computer every time I added fuel ...... it is deadly accurate and I have over 100 hrs with it. I would be lost with out it, I love it !
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