what do you do to your outboard between annual services?

[mik01]

All,

is it enough to service your outboard once a year and leave it at that, or is there some recommended ongoing maintenance you can do to keep it ship shape?

I'm interested to hear from as many ausfishers on what I can do to keep the outboard in great shape so that there are minimal issues come service time.

Some have mentioned giving it a spray with salt-x etc, but is there anything else?

cheers!

Mick

[Chimo]

Check for fishing line around the props, flush after use, hose it off with water, pull the cowls of every once in a while and have a look and if I get really bored polish the Rakers (but not often tho)

Must be getting close to being overdue for a service but I guess I'll have to leave it till the new year as everyone wants their stuff done before Xmas.

Merry Xmas and a Happy New year to you by the way. Our street party is tomorrow nite.

Cheers
Chimo

[charleville]

My routine is:-


1. Flush the motor after use - if I am going out on consecutive days, I just flush at the end of the series of outings.

2. Grease the grease points every three or four weeks when regularly using.

3. Open up the cowl every now and then and clean off any salt deposits that enter near the latch and spray Inox around pretty generously.

4. Spray Inox around places like the hydraulic ram and external parts such as steering ram and linkages and nuts taking care not to spray any of the sacrificial anodes.

5. Have an occasional glance at the oil dipstick. (4 stroke)

6. I give the whole motor (external) a bit of a wipe over with my wet hands to remove the dried salt spray.

7. Check the prop visually to see that there are no dings or chunks missing.

[mik01]

actually, just a question on the prop...
i have a few dings in the prop, and whilst not too bad I was wondering how do you measure the prop to replace it?
ie - is the prop measurement from outside of prop to other side, or the section that connects to the outboard?

[thump-a]

actually, just a question on the prop...
i have a few dings in the prop, and whilst not too bad I was wondering how do you measure the prop to replace it?
ie - is the prop measurement from outside of prop to other side, or the section that connects to the outboard?

Hi miko1
the size should be stamped or moulded on the prop [ external centre ]

[BM]

Mik01,

Your prop pitch and diameter will typically be found stamped into the side of the prop or on the centre hub of the prop (beneath the prop nut).

The following is Chapter 12: Ongoing Maintenance, from my DIY Boat Inspection Manual and deals with between service maintenance:

The purpose of this chapter is to provide a checklist of items for boat owners to check in between scheduled servicing periods. If problems can be detected very early on then rectification can often mean a simple fix rather than an expensive repair job.

Assuming you purchased the tools mentioned in the first chapter, or possess them already:

Periodically check the compression readings of your engine. These should not change essentially and a noticeable difference in one cylinder compared to the others will immediately indicate that you have a problem. It would be wise not to use the boat until it has been checked by a marine workshop and the problem rectified.


Regularly inspect the propeller for any shallow water damage, cavitation pitting or any other damage. Also check the trueness of the propeller shaft. These checks can be carried out each time the engine is flushed after use.


Periodically inspect your gear oil for any signs of water ingress. Marine gear oils are designed to mix well with water so the gears and bearings are still protected although rectification of the problem should be carried out as soon as possible. Also inspect the gearcase itself for any impact damage or cracking of the housing. Remove the propeller and examine the propeller shaft seals for signs of leaking.


Regularly check the steering system. Cable and pulley systems tend to wear the cable, push/pull systems tend to crack the outer layer of the cable near where it connects to the engine and the shaft running through the engine tends to bind inside the tube. Lubricate this shaft with oil, or Inox or some other form of lubricant. Do not use grease. Hydraulic steering systems can develop leaks from the seals on the hydraulic ram shaft. Check regularly for leaks and keep the ram shaft clean.


Regularly inspect the engine control cables. These can tend to crack and rust open like a push/pull steering cable. Cable problems will usually become evident, as the controls tend to become stiff to operate. Continuing to operate with stiff controls can cause damage to the control box mechanism.


Regularly inspect the flow rate of your telltale as a basic indicator of the health of your water pump. When out boating, approximately every minute a quick check over your shoulder will determine if you have good telltale flow and will also enable you to pick up on a cooling system problem even before the engine overheat sounds. When flushing after use the same telltale check can be performed although telltales will often have lower pressure on earmuffs and in particular V6 engines will often have a non-continuous flow on earmuffs.


Periodically check trailer bearings and regularly check trailer lights and brakes (if fitted). Particularly mechanical brakes as these tend to go out of adjustment often.


For stern drive engines regularly check the bellows tubes and every time the boat is used check the oil level in the lower unit reservoir bottle (if fitted). Also check the oil level and coolant level (if fresh water cooled) each time the boat is used. Note also the oil pressure and engine temperature gauge readings. Any noticeable change should be investigated.


Regularly check fuel lines, connectors, primer bulbs and ensure that fuel tanks (particularly inbuilt tanks) are secure.


For outboard engines periodically check the engines upper and lower mounts and also the mounting bolts holding the engine to the transom. For inboard engines periodically check the engine mounts.


For inboard conventional (shaft) drive engines regularly check and grease the log gland and ensure it’s not leaking. Also check the propeller shaft for trueness, the propeller for any damage, the skeg bush for free play and the rudder blade and rudder bush.


Regularly check all engines for any leaks, damaged components or frayed wiring etc.


Cheers

[mik01]

excellent BM - many thanks.

17-k is stamped on the prop - what does the 'k' mean?
how doe you know when its time to get a new one, or would you only replace if there is obvious damage due to a strike of some sort?

[BM]

If you ding it you can get it repaired. You'd really have to nearly destroy it before it was deemed destroyed.

Not sure what the 'K" is but all Yam props have the K after the pitch.

Cheers

[mik01]

cheers mate.

I think i should get a service manual for the outboard so I know half of the parts you mentioned! good info though.
thanks,
Mick

[Spaniard_King]

Notm sure about inox anymore a few brand names are warding against it.. apparently breaking down the insulation on their electrics???

[seatime]

The Evinrude Johnson "6 in 1" lub spray works good, kinda $$ though.