Anderson Plugs - Hot or not ?

[Aeon]

I've installed anderson plugs on my minn kota (50 amp plugs).... and they are terrible. The wires are barely held in there, and the motor cuts in and out as the wires move. I could have the wires soldered into the plugs for a better connection, but I'm inclined just to order the minn kota plug & socket. Is this a common problem with these plugs????.... I understand many people use them with the bow mount motors.

Thanks
Mick

[finga]

Sounds like some dodgy ones.
They shouldn't get hot and they shouldn't cut out.
I've put tons of them in different gismo's and never had a problem with them.
I love them...in an inanimate sort of way

[Roo]

If they're only crimped it's likely the connection is poor. I've got a set of these but have yet to install them as i don't have the tools to do it properly.

[dnej]

There you go Finga,a nice day at Pottsville,to help out a man who needs the correct gear.
David

[finga]

There you go Finga,a nice day at Pottsville,to help out a man who needs the correct gear.
David

Mmmmm
Actually Orby when I go through next time it may not be such a bad idea.
Tell lies and do a couple of crimps
I hope to go through in the next 2 weeks.

[FrankFWM]

Hi AEON,

Problems like you are describing are usualy due to using too smaller wire size for the anderson plug and/or the contacts not being crimped properly with the correct tools...

Some people solder them to save the cost of the correct crimpers which is probably better than what you currently have but even solder is not reccomended in a boat as the solder and wires can crack/break dure to vibration.

I suggest you find someone with the correct crimping tool to do it properly for you - takes a few seconds to do...

Anderson connectors are the best to use as they have the lowest resistance and are "loss less" so you have chosen the right connector at least

Frank

[driveon]

Hi Aeon, as post a number of times above, sounds like poor crimping.

I would strongly recommend that you solder the terminals and there is no more risk of the cable fatiguing whether you solder or crimp.

Genuine Anderson plugs come with a data sheet and the company recommends both soldering or crimping.

In my business, I fit heaps of the Anderson connectors and both solder and crimp and never have problems either way.

Anderson 50 amp plug terminals will accept up to 16mm2 cable but you can use smaller cable and when using comparatively thin cable, soldering will give you a much better cable fix to the terminal.

[kevin jackson]

mate if they are lose then you have the connection points in the wrong way, take them out the turn them up the other way and push them in real hard as it should click twice, this will cool them down as you will get a better connection. i only know this is cause i had the same problem. hope thsi helps.

[Aeon]

The wires are crimped and soldered into the connectors and the boat shop gave me wire thicker than the minn kota's.... so Kelvin must be hot on the trail. I mustn't have the wires pushed far enough into the plugs and this is why they are loose. I only got the one 'click' not two. I'll give it another crack tonight, thanks for your replies guys.

They are genuine anderson plugs (it's written on them) but they came in 'BIAS' packaging. No instructions.

Maybe I'm just weak....!?!

[driveon]

I mustn't have the wires pushed far enough into the plugs and this is why they are loose. I only got the one 'click' not two.

Hi Aeon, Kevin’s tip is a good one and you can easily check if the terminals are correctly seated by looking at the terminal end of the plugs.

The terminals can normally be moved easily from side to side but they should not be able to move back and forward.

If they do move back and forward then the terminals are not seated properly, if this is the case, there is a small flat spring plate that locks under the leading edge of the terminal.

All you have to do is push the terminal in far enough for the spring plate to lock in place, job done.

[Roo]

Mmmmm
Actually Orby when I go through next time it may not be such a bad idea.
Tell lies and do a couple of crimps
I hope to go through in the next 2 weeks.

I'll happily listen to your lies Finga. let me know if you are passing and i'll try and be home...I don't technically work on weekends but for you(and your big crimping tool) I'll make an exemption.
Seriously, I do appreciate the offer. let me know your travel plans and we'll see if it pans out. I was just down @ Evans on sunday......good surf and cold bevy's @ the Bowlo. I said to one of my mates down there......"Geez you got it good!".

Cheers Roo.

[angler1]

thanks aeon for asking that question. i just purchaced a pair of anderson plugs today and i am yet to fit them. heaps of good advice to get me going tomorrow.

cheers guys
angler1

[FrankFWM]

Hi Aeon, as post a number of times above, sounds like poor crimping.

I would strongly recommend that you solder the terminals and there is no more risk of the cable fatiguing whether you solder or crimp.

Genuine Anderson plugs come with a data sheet and the company recommends both soldering or crimping.

In my business, I fit heaps of the Anderson connectors and both solder and crimp and never have problems either way.

Anderson 50 amp plug terminals will accept up to 16mm2 cable but you can use smaller cable and when using comparatively thin cable, soldering will give you a much better cable fix to the terminal.

For the record, the ABYC standards for wiring in relation to joints are as follows:

ABYC Section E-8.15.19
Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor.

ABYC Section E-8.15.20
Solderless crimp on connectors shall be attached with the type of crimping tools designed for the connector used, and that will produce a connection meeting the requirements of ABYC E-8.15.15.

The possibility of strain hardening caused by low frequency vibration present on vessels mandates the exclusive use of stranded copper wire (ABYC E-11.16.1.2.5. and ABYC E-11.16.1.3.7.). Tinned, stranded copper wire is the preferred wire conductor for use in marine electrical systems because it offers maximum protection against corrosion. At junctions, this wire is galvanically compatible with tin plated terminals. This compatibility helps prevent high resistance connections, overheated junctions, and fires.

Soldering is not recommended for terminal connections because it forms a hard transition which is prone to fatigue failure

Tape (alone) is not an adequate insulator nor sealant.

This is a straight cut and paste from the standards... crimping is definitely not the preferred method - I believe this is true for cars/4WD's also...

Hope this helps...

[driveon]

Hi Frank, if we were to emphasis the adherence to specific marine wiring standards then the use of Anderson plugs themselves would probably not meet those standards in the first place.

This discussion is about whether the Anderson plugs have been successfully assembled correctly and whether they are soldered or crimped, in this type application, is not going to make any difference to the long term reliability for the application being covered.

I do not work directly in the marine industry but I can assure you, based on my experience of having installed Anderson plugs on everything from dual battery systems in 4x4s, to battery connections between tow vehicles and camper trailers, caravans, floats, through to trucks and semi trailers, many of which will give the connections to their Anderson plugs far greater abuse for much, MUCH longer periods than is ever likely to occur in situations as being discussed here, the likely hood of a solder joint fatiguing is about zero.

[finga]

I personally prefer to crimp and solder where possible...if not possible then solder alone and if I only crimp then a dob of Lanolin grease goes on and in the terminal.
It seems to seal the end of the cable where it meets the terminal and after that a bit of dual wall heat shrink has been put on the end of the cable and the cable is as good as sealed to prevent any ingress of moisture (either up the guts of the strands via capillary action or up the side of the insulation) that causes corrosion which is the primary cause of bad connections and problems/failures of wiring in boats.
I've seen wires broken off tons of times but this is mainly due to corrosion problems at the termination.
Never seen one just snapped off without corrosion.
Yes its true that a solder wire can fatigue and snap at the solid (soldered)-flexible(cable) interface (spot where the solder stops) but if you reduce the amount of movement possible at this interface then you'll have no problems.

The main thing to remember is too support the cables to reduce the strain placed on terminations or joins what-ever method you prefer.