marine grease V's never seaze

[oldboot]

I've nbeen a lover of never sease since I was a spotty teenager & I rarely put a bolt & nut together on anything mechanical without it.


But i've been considering the various merits of marine grease.

in a salt water enviroment like boats & trailers what do you recon works the best.

cheers

[Stuart]

The best grease in the world is called MBL “a pro-ma performance Product”. MBL stands fro metal based lubricant. This stuff was used back in the early 50s with miners. The miners would file shavings from a lead block and a copper block into the oil of their machinery. Lead and copper don’t bond, they slide of each other.

I have seen tests done where MBL was added to a land cruiser Ute engine and allowed to run for one day before the sump was drained of all the oil and the plug left out. The land cruiser Ute was driven under normal every day conditions for 4 days with no oil and the motor never missed a beat. I have used this product for over 20 years and I can vouch for the products ability in harsh and normal conditions. I had the same trailer for near on 10 years and that thing was in and out of the water at least three times a week. I never had to once replace the bearings.

I have seen the friction brake machine test done on all the popular greases and oils and nothing ever come close to this product.

Stu

[Noelm]

the very best grease for marine use is OMC triple gaurd, without any doubt, it is by far the best, it does not go all hard, does not wash away, is immune to salt water, never seize and that sort of thing sometimes have funny metals in their make up, and on very odd occasions, it can react with some Boat types of metals, so to be safe use a proper marine grease, NOT waterproof, but Marine, and the genuine OMC one has proven to be the best (and it is a pretty Blue)

[FNQCairns]

Oldboot for my money, I now use only a waterproof grease or lanolin depending on application, they are acceptable, easy to stock and waste, also relativly cheap, noelm has the idea though, that OMC stuff has stood the test of time with little surpassing it.

Stuart I have used the MBL on and of for near 20 years also, it uses big doses of Molybendum as the only main ingredient, it works too well for some applications manufacturers will not touch it, spare parts need to be sold as soon as possible after warrenty expires not a long long tome after warrenty. The oil additive is great for gearboxs also.

cheers fnq

[oldboot]

Oh NO not the dreaded copper/ lead molecules.............Sorry wasn't convinced then and still not......... Any body that claims any thing is the worlds best anything makes me suspicious.

there are several products very much like never sease and many marine greases of similar formulations and performance.

Both products well proven in industry and serious marine applications.

Nothing weird, good steady products.

OH BTW neversease has coper and lead in it .... so much for uncle Val's coper lead molecules.

cheers

[Benny01]

moly shouldnt be used for wheel bearings because it is too slippery and the bearing just slide in one spot instead of rolling which will cause the bearing to fail prematurely

[Hebb]

Grease or anti seize compounds are designed for different situations. A bolt into a housing (eg power head bolts) that is subject to heat or corrosive enviroments require antiseize where as rotating, sliding or pivoting machinery require a lubricant(ie grease or oil to reduce friction and dissapate heat). Used together the two compounds should prevent corrosion and increase life of equipment.

[Spaniard_King]

Hebb is on the money..... you need the right product for the right application... any bolt that is not frequently removed should be never seized anything that is regularly moved/removed can be greased. One thing to note is that if using anever seize on a bolt/nut in a marine enviroment the brand used should contain Nickel as it for salt water applications

[gleeeza]

Nickel anti seize is only good for threads and protecting mating surfaces that are subject to extreme heat( exhaust manifolds, heat exchangers), that is if you can afford to use it on everything. I am not sure that it would hold on if it was in a situation of immersion,it is just too thin. Great for stainless to stainless fittings as it stops the metal from growing together and picking up which causes scoring of components when disassembled, especially threads.

EP oils and marine greases are meant for high friction operations like gearboxes, wheel bearings, winches and the marine grades stick like crap to a blanket which is it's best attribute.

I'm not entirely sure I wanna be mixing lead and copper around my aluminium hull or on my motor for that matter, I am not willing to take the risk and find out the hard way that it might react. Was a boiler mechanic once and can attest to the qualities of copper coat in the right application but I have my doubts about it on outboards.

Oils ain't Oils

Gleeeza

[Spaniard_King]

Gleeza why would loctite recommend Nickel antiseize for saltwater applications then?? I have been using it for over 20 years in the marine industry with great results.

[Eagle]

Never Sieze is a specific compound for use in extreme heat where oxidation (burning) of the metals is a major problem. Never Sieze must NEVER be used on the wheel studs of cars or trailers of any vechicle. The extreme lubricity of this stuff is a major cause of wheel studs snapping when you least need such excitement. Do a search thru this site for more info and my own reports about it. I will never use it on any of my wheel studs, far too dangerous. A lite smear of oil is all that is required on w/studs. To protect the threads, cover the exposed threads with your favorite marine grease AFTER you have tightened the nuts.
Eagle

[Benny01]

wheel studs dont snap because they are lubed up too much buddy

[blaze]

Never Sieze is a specific compound for use in extreme heat where oxidation (burning) of the metals is a major problem. Never Sieze must NEVER be used on the wheel studs of cars or trailers of any vechicle. The extreme lubricity of this stuff is a major cause of wheel studs snapping when you least need such excitement. Do a search thru this site for more info and my own reports about it. I will never use it on any of my wheel studs, far too dangerous. A lite smear of oil is all that is required on w/studs. To protect the threads, cover the exposed threads with your favorite marine grease AFTER you have tightened the nuts.
Eagle

Dont know about not using anti sieze on wheel studs etc, used it for 30 + years as a tradie. Over tensioning is the cause of more nuts coming undone and breaking than anti sieze ever was. All bolts have a correct tension to be done up to, if dry (unlubed) or lubed, most bolts have a tension for each and done to that tension they wont fail. Seen lots of wine glass shaped threads from over tensioning in my time.
correct product for the job
cheers
blaze

[FrankFWM]

I agree withy Blaze - that is why I always use a torque wrench...

If there is a lube used - then torque as appropriate...

Most service manuals specify if a lube or neversieze type product is to be used and they specify the toque setting based on this also.

Frank

[GBC]

The engineers specc'd nickel anti seize on all our 304 ss bolts for intertidal use - mainly to prevent the threads from binding. These were torqued into place on lattice towers.
For all the galv stuff and fish plating we had to use lanolin.
I also use anti seize on studs and love it. Just throw away the copper stuff for marine applications unless you own a timber lugger.