PHP Warning: Use of undefined constant VBA_SCRIPT - assumed 'VBA_SCRIPT' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in ..../includes/functions_navigation.php(802) : eval()'d code on line 1 How is drag presure measured?
Ive just baught my self a Shimano Tekota 700 for reef fishing and i wanted to know the max drag it can handle, google and you shall find, and i found that it has around 10kg of max drag.
Now my question is, the real has 10kg of max drag, so shimano says when they test them in the testing facilities, but once on a rod and while fishing, because the line is going through all the runners and the rod is absorbing the presure, would this change the max drag under usage??
My theory is, if you are using a stiff rod (no jokes please) there would be less absorbtion by the rod, thus the max drag the reel is rated at would be more acurate, where as if you had a softer rod and it bent alot more, there would be more absorbtion and your max drag would be raised?
But does this stop somewhere? because the rod wont keep bending, so the absorbtion has to stop somewhere? So once the bending of the rod stops, then its reached true max drag?
Or am i making things more complicated then they really are?
re max drag and drag ratings .. So if a reel is rated to 10kgs max drag , does that indicate that the drag will work perfectly smoothly at 10kgs ???
and if so for how long ???
or does that mean it will cease to work smoothly or seize or smoke ? A ktel barby reel can probably seize on 10kgs if the line on it is heavy enuff..
With top end reels with claims of 37kgs of drag , over 12kg may cause the anti revers to shatter on strike , and u gotta wonder how the bail arm is gonna go at 37kgs ..
In answer to your question once the weight is static{not moving} the absorbtion of the rod is no longer relevant.. If the weight were moving toward the spool the pressure on the spool would be less than the weight , if it had momentum to move away it would be more ..
I would assume they measure the max drag with direct force on the spool. As soon as any rod comes into the equation (stiff or more flaccid), it will absorb some shock, up to a point. Of course you then have line stretch to consider, particularly with mono, as this will absorb more of the force initially. So getting the 10kg of pressure on the reel would only happen after the rod started to bend and all stretch had been taken out of the line I would assume.
Carpel makes a good point in relation to how long will the drag run smoothly at 10kg. I would have thought the type of rod, line used, fish being played, angling technique etc would all affect how long it would perform well at its maximum drag setting.
I have always assumed that the max drag is an indication of what it can handle, but ideally it should be set somewhere under that to ensure smooth, long lasting performance.
Exactly Fafina.. Its is only suspension , once the weight is set it is all transfered or guided to the spool.. In practice the rod is only leverage for your lift , the stress on the spool remains the same.. unless the weight is relieved by moving closer to the spool, or increased by being propelled away ..
When setting a drag I take it to where it can just lift 1 third of my line class , either via pull scales or a bucket of water 1litre =1kg , then turn it slightly back so that the weight will pull slowly from that setting at max , i still have sunset to increase to if needed ..
What I am saying is it would make no difference if a rod was there or not. or if the line stretched or not , when the stretch was finished the weight would remain the same and be tranfered to the spool.
Try pull testing with scales vs direct drop with = weight in water . Or take the rod out of the equation and just clamp reel to a bench . same same ..
Once a reel is set with a load at a specific amount of line out it will not make a scrap of difference what rod the line runs through whether it be stiff or soft or how many runners / rollers are present. It is set at the reel. If you have a lot more line out from your initial setting for weight the actual load on the line increases due to a smaller spool diameter and therefore a shorter leverage point to initiate the drag system.
You may however find there might be a small percentage of difference to the load on the end of the line depending opn what rod configuration you are using due to friction over guides / runners. This will be negligible in almost every case.
Who needs to ever worry about how much drag you can set anyway?? I mean surely common sense and a bit of practice can see most anyone being able to set the drag to where you are not going to overload your line or your rod. Isn't that the only reason for a drag in the first place?
re settings Its kind of good to know but isnt it , that full strike =five kgs on 15 kg line for instance .. Particularly if u fish different ways allot . I am usually surprised at how much drag 5kgs is,,
The only difference the rod should make is the extra resistance given by the line running over the guides. The greater the rod angle the more pressure on the guide surface and the more drag (give this a test you'll be surprised how much it can vary). To put it as a function the tension at the rod tip would be equal to the drag output of the reel plus the drag output of all the guides. if you were to put a force meter after the rod tip, in between half of the guides and at the reel you may find for 10kgs of drag it is only 9.5kgs half way down the rod and 9kg's at the reel as an example. As previously stated the rod is a leverage tool, but while 10kg's is 10kg's for the reel it isn't for you. While the rod is good for absorbing shock and minimising the peaks in drag pressure* it also offers leverage against you. That is for a rigid pole that is 2 metres long with a 10kg mass at the end held on the horizontal, if you where to set the other end against your gut and hold the rod half a metre down, you would have to be holding the equivalent of 40kg's of tension. This is where rod design comes comes into play. Total length, grip position, taper all play a crucial role in ruducing the total tension you need to hold. This is why jigging rods are short with an even taper and a grip half way down the blank and why bream rods are long, have a fast action and short grips, because leverage is important for a 20kg amberjack but not so important for a 200gram bream.
*while a reel might run at 10kgs depending on how smoothe the drag is and heavy the spool is, sudden acceleration will cause the drag to spike hence the reason it is recommended to run 1/3, to allow for fluctuations, line damage, knot fatigue etc. A soft rod or soft tipped rod will reduce the the peak of the spike, next time you catch a mackeral or tuna when it runs point the rod tip straight at it and feel the transferance of the peaks up the rod, then load the rod and whatch the tip absorb the shock and give you a relatively constant pressure. Also take note of the difference in how hard you have to pull considering that the only difference is the extra tension exerted by the guide surface at the different angles for reasons of leverage.
Why worrie about the reel drag when the critical factor is what drag pressure your knots can take before breaking. Tie your favourite knot and test what pressure it can take.Then tie a different knot and see if it breaks at higher or lower pressure.This especially useful when useing braid. Rods these days are normally overloaded these days because of the use of braided lines and incorrect useage.Put 8kgs over your favourite and see how powerful this really is.Hope this helps.
Graham
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