Not sure if this is the right forum, but canoe storage?

[Damned67]

Hi all,
Just bought my first water vessel, a 16ft fiberglass canoe. Was originally looking for a tinnie, but had it pointed out to me that I'll never get a trailer up and down my drive way, so went with something to strap to the roof racks instead.

Anyway, that's got little to do with my question. My question is this: How do I store the damn thing? Currently, I'm planning on strapping it to the roof beams in the carport. Is that safe? Got to be better than the floor of the garage where it is now, right?
Other options/ideas?
Cheers!

[quigley595]

Hi all,
Just bought my first water vessel, a 16ft fiberglass canoe. Was originally looking for a tinnie, but had it pointed out to me that I'll never get a trailer up and down my drive way, so went with something to strap to the roof racks instead.

Anyway, that's got little to do with my question. My question is this: How do I store the damn thing? Currently, I'm planning on strapping it to the roof beams in the carport. Is that safe? Got to be better than the floor of the garage where it is now, right?
Other options/ideas?
Cheers!

Cheers on your purchase!!!! (I should have talked mine up more!! LOL, but then.. I'm not a salesman!!)

Back to your question.... You can store it any way you like, but if it is on the floor, turn it upside down

Hanging it from the beams in straps, is also good so long as it doesn't get in your way, but it there is any chance of it getting wet (filling with water), obviously, hang it upside down.

Look forward to reading your reports!!!! Try the pine or logan rivers, and wear PFDs --- canoes can tip easily.

If you haven't done much paddling, remember (in no particular order of importance):

1. Strongest person sits in the back to supply most of the propulsion, person up front supplies most of the steering.
2. Take it easy getting in and out - hardest part of the operation for new paddlers
3. balance your load in the middle (common sense really)
4. nice easy rhythmic paddles, by twisting your body as opposed to pushing back on the paddles (which will tire you out easier)

have fun

Cheers
Mike

[Eagle]

Congratulations on the purchase of one of the very best styles of fishing boats. I have a 16 foot kayak that I use for fishing and camping. A canoe can slide thru the water absolutely silent and enable you to get into areas where power boats cant go. As for storage, try and store under the ceiling of your garage and positioned upside down. I hang mine using small block and tackles and when I want to use it, I just lower it onto the roof racks. It is essential to tie the bow and stern down onto the bumpers of your car and also a rope from the front of the canoe back to the r/rack or even down to the rear bumper. This rope is very important as it will keep your pride and joy on the rack if you have to do an emergency stop or even a fast slowing down. It's usually best to transport upside down as the canoe will sit best on the roof rack and it wont fill up with water should it rain. The best fish I have caught from my kayak was a 35 inch long flathead on a 7 lb line with a whiting hook and a yabbie. I have also filled it (almost) with mackeral when I lived in Redcliffe many years ago. Check out this site for some fabulous info.

http://www.akff.net/forum/index.php

May you enjoy your new boat to the uttermost.
Eagle

[Damned67]

Thanks Mike!!
My current plan, if it's deemed safe enough, is too hoist the canoe to the ceiling of the garage via ratchet straps, right above the car. That way, it's a simple lift on and off the car when I'm taking it out. Anything that I can do to avoid manually lifting that thing is the primary goal. Damn it's heavy.

Cheers!!

Edit: Thanks Eagle. If my internet wasn't so slow, I would have responded to your post also.
What anchor points can I use to tie the bow and stern down? I've only a small 'eyelet' through the bow and stern, which currently has rope for handles.

Thanks!

[Eagle]

I fitted two cleats at the bow and tied the bow down using these cleats. For the stern, I ran the same bow line to the rear and lashed the stern down using a half hitch down to the bumper. This worked extremely well. For a canoe, you may have to improvise a holdown point at each end. The fastenings, cleats etc, need to be able to withstand at least 2 1/2 g's (gravity) as the loads imposed when stopping quickly can be very high indeed. The last thing you need to have happen is to find the cleats/tiedowns have torn out.
Eagle