Last edited by finga; 20-09-2007 at 06:37 AM.
I intend on living for-ever....so far so good
Not fair!
if I did something like that it would be labled as girly, girly bling, by Myles or Stu!!!
Going to take full advantage when it comes around to building the PINK blank that Myles gave me, although that's down the track ATM, I've only (yesterday) finished removing the remains of the ruined McGinn wap. Very sad indeed.
Last edited by roz; 20-09-2007 at 10:56 AM.
GO THE CRUISER UTES!
....OH WHAT A FEELING!
If you reckon that's girlie Roz what do you think of the finish on this rod.
It's going to be my Dad's Parramata rod.
It a blue-gold colour changer.
You can see the difference in the finished colour near the LHS. This bit was black and the rest was white underneath.
Ooh bugger...the colour didn't come out as light as it actually is
Last edited by finga; 20-09-2007 at 11:28 AM.
I intend on living for-ever....so far so good
Looks great Scott!!! I've given up with photos, occasionally ya get one that's close to the real thing, but an explaination of what the object look like in reality is usually required. Bring it along on the 30th if you could please.
As mentioned, Myles gave me a blank that really is pink, but it is third in line after the McGinn and Herby's boat rod.
cheers r
GO THE CRUISER UTES!
....OH WHAT A FEELING!
Scott,
I had a gin around with the green/purple powder last knight.
I thinned some epoxy way down with acetone on mixed it in.
By the looks of it the purple is heavier than the gren and wants to settle.
I reckon it'll need a very thin first coat (maybe even sprayed) then a coat of clear and then another coat of colour followed by the top coat.
The two layers should help with the colour change the same way as a tiger wrap.
I'll let you know how it goes.
cheers,
Owen
Cheers,
Owen
The whole world's mad save thee & me (but I'm not too sure about thee)
Owen,
Just a word of caution when thinning down epoxy, you may find it will change colour with age. Iso-propyl alcohol prodan - 2- can be used, however there are some light epoxys on the market nowdays, better option IMO. Hope you don't mind me sticking my nose in here.
r.
GO THE CRUISER UTES!
....OH WHAT A FEELING!
G'day Roz,
Hadn't heard of that happening.
I have a supplier that sells isopropyl alcohol.
I planned on getting some for cleaning etc, so I'll give it a whirl.
I would havethought acetone would pretty much evaporate, but I s'pose it could alter the chemical balance.
cheers
Owen
Cheers,
Owen
The whole world's mad save thee & me (but I'm not too sure about thee)
I had some of that purple-green stuff mixed up in some resin and I just went and pulled the mixing cup out of the bin and pulled the resin 'lpug' out and had a gander at what's on the bottom.
Couldn't really tell as it all looked purple to me.
I noticed there's a real difference in finished colour when the base colour is different though.
I tried it on an old blank where there was some black and I put some masking tape on another bit and the finished colours were different.
I'll have to give you some sparkles Roz for you to try on your girlie rod if you want .
Cheers all
Scott
I intend on living for-ever....so far so good
Scott,
That's exactly the result I would expect.
For a holograph to work one "image" or colour has to sit higher than the other.
So either the epoxy has to be thick with the purple sinking and the green rising to the top, or you have to do two layers so thin that the purple can't sink and seperate the layers with a clear one.
Then when you shift your eye, you will see differnt colours as the bottome layer flecks are hidden (or not) by the top layer.
That's how th tiger wrap works.
You loosely run two contrasting threads side by side (say black & silver) and wrap from left to right.
Then you burnish the threads so they form "S" shapes all over the place.
Then you put a couple of layers of epoxy on to give it depth.
Then wrap two threads on top, but go right to left. Use say "black & blue".
Then carefully unwind the black thread from the top layer so you have an evenly spaced blue thread only.
Then epoxy again.
What you will see is a wavy blue & silver pattern depending on the angle.
like below
I reckon this powder stuff needs the same kind of principal.
Cheers,
Owen
The whole world's mad save thee & me (but I'm not too sure about thee)
I've seen the 'yellowing' myself, I suppose if there are colours involved it might not be noticed. However, use it at between 5 or 10% in solution, I wouldn't go higher than 10%. Do without if possible, or run a little trial first.
r.
GO THE CRUISER UTES!
....OH WHAT A FEELING!
I did some research on flouro paints. The one they sell at "supercheap",, the manufacturer advised "no good" for salt water as the chlorine molecules will react with the chemicals in the paint and it wont glow.I asked about covering it with epoxy, and he said the epoxy wont seal it.
I know this is off topic but i thought there might be some who were interested.
Cheers
rando
Mate, I tried the tiger wrap with the epoxy between the two layers (something different again) and makes the wrap a whole new kettle of fishheads.
Gives it a definte 3D effect and the more coats between the 2 the better the effect I'd reckon.
I only tried with 2 thin coats
Ta mate
I intend on living for-ever....so far so good
Yeah, the further apart the two layers of thread are the more the 3d effect.
You do have to be careful what colors you use.
I did one with metallic silver & dark metallic blue on the botton and a lighter mettalic blue on top wit quite a thick layer of epoxy between.
It looked good inside, but as soon as you took it in full sun the metallic silver shone through too much and the moire effect disappeared.
Cheers,
Owen
The whole world's mad save thee & me (but I'm not too sure about thee)
I was boring mate.
Black and metallic silver under and black on top.
I intend on living for-ever....so far so good