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Try sourcing your oil from a caltex or ampol wholesaler, or a large truck stop as it is usually cheaper than from the servos but it is still a good choice. In an older type motor like my '82 'crusier i add 500ml of engine oil to a 90 litres of diesel tank. This helps to lube up and freshen the seals in the older injection pumps since the sulpher has been reduced from diesel as the lead has removed from petrol. Bi tron is good diesel additive is you can source it in Mackay. Do a web search for agents, get the 2st oil additive make my 2st run smooth is you do order some.
yamp good choice the Dello, thankfully they only market it at the big rigs, so competition keeps the price down, if it were marketed toward everyday vehicles it would cost 2x as much.
Better fuel economy is all about cetane ratings, for the additive to better economy it must either increase this (with the proportionate incease in HP) or decrease friction (with a proportonate increase in HP).
So if your engine makes 100hp stock straight from the dealer and someone claims a 5% increase in fuel economy look also for the HP increase sort of hand in hand. IMO most claims of fuel economy increases from a additive dose at say .2% by Volume to a tank stinks of snake oil salesman.
Upper cyl lube has some merits, there are a few different well sold and used active ingredient world wide, some of these are not without their known problems, best to know what one is used in that particular formula, they can work but may not be cost effectivly given time (some are harmfull!). There is nothing new here it's all old technology so do some research on what is already known and understood.
Synthetic has the same drag as dino oil, wt for wt, the synthetic is better usually because of the lack of viscosity improvers needed to bring it to spec, that's good for sheer proofing the oil (relatively speaking).
Synthtic is of most value about 2/10ths of a second before the engine blows up (when the stresses are that large the synthetic is doing a markedly better job!).
Using the same wt for front and rear dif if you live in an area that has neither extreme of climate is a good idea, but case by case. A 75 140 would be a less robust oil than a 90 140 becuase the more viscosity improver needed to span such a range, the less sheer stable it becomes, diffs can be hard on oils.
If you do not do heaps of driving with the front engaged (constant 4x4, farm truck etc) then it is more cost effective to use an average and cheap front diff oil like the ones sold at auto stores and drop it with the synthetic used in the rear each time.
thanks very much for info fellas, fnq very informative reading,wondered what you reccommend regards to getting the best out of my diesel I many use 2w only 4h sometimes,I was thinking of doing oil and filter every 5k instead of 10 and putting synthetic oil in diffs,next change for better fuel economy,I was also going to run fuel treatment every second tank or so and maybe use the cylinder conditioner every now and again,sounds like it might do more harm than good?or just waste money.just looking to get a good maintainece program started to look after car for many years to come cheers Yamp
The mob that service my Rodeo use Valvoline and I will be changing the Oil and Filter every 5000k's as recommended by the manufacturer, Has anyone had any issues with Valvoline in the past or at all, Thanks Whitto
Yamp I may be having a brain fade but I dont understand the 2w and 4h references
You have the dello it is good for 5k without doubt in a sound engine, taking it to 10 is possible also but not without an oil ananysis to ascertain where the oil stands in your engine under the conditions you used it since the fill. There is no way around this, so 5k is without doubt safe given the engine doesn't have an illness.
Longer with a UOA (they can be cost effective) for instance if the used oil analysis shows the oil is still good at 7k then 12k then at 15k the oil has almost reached it's use by, a person has just saved good money on oil + service charges or time, the results can be remembered combined with an understanding of the use the vehicle was put through during that period can extend their future drains to say 10k and pocket the savings.
If you do lot's of cold starts, stick ridgidly to 5k, if your a highway driver with minimal stop start and not towing a person can safely go longer although this can only be shown to be the right choice with an oil ananysis.
Unless the engine has a problem traveling 10k would probably come down to soot holding capacity more than anything, dello rates well here being a HDDO.
Your filter works better the longer it is in place, 5 or 10 the choice is yours the filter probably doesn't care, most filters can go to 15k+ etc but not recommended due to range of individual engines in their own individual condition and used for individual uses.
The term synthetic means nothing today as a result of an international court case, synthetic now simply means marketing. For it to have value a person must know precisly what group the oil stock used to make the oil is, without this as the reference even dino (mineral) oils can be labeled synthtic, like who within the crop of typical customers buying a mass marketed diesel vehicle oil (not a HDDO) is going to research it??
Brass tacks on the first number used in weighting oils is that it is a crock here in Oz, a 5w and a 15w will both be relativly the same thickness upon startup in Australia and will only relate to 5&15 in conditions we do not drop down to, the upper number means all (this relates to diff oils also), it's important to select an oil for your dif that will maintain its vicosity and therefore film thickness under high temperature conditions and with age due to sheer.
So if going synthetic for diff try 90w-140 synthetic the oil will be more robust, and the extra drag relating to 75/90 would only be of consern for fuel economy if used in winter in north america.
Hey Grunta don't believe it, the manual doen't state their recommended interval for people who want the best for their engines, more related to good enough and to appeal to those who may choose a different vehicle if the book stated 5k due to servicing cost etc.
A 9l sump really has nothing to do with it, 20L possibly it would?? A UOA will tell you where your engine stands for the conditions you use and treat it.
Whitto from my perspective only the V will be fine for rigid 5k but not an oil to push to 7 or even 10 without knowing exactly where the oil stood at 5k.
Thanks for info fnq sorry about the 2w 4h comment I meant 2h and 4h 2wheel, high range and 4 wheel high range.also was interested in doing oil checks whats the go with them regarding where, how cost etc.also probably stupid question but what do you mean by cold starts,Im in Mackay nq so its always pretty warm here. cheers Yamp
Grunter71/Yamp ring any of the major oil/fuel companys they sell kit's which you then use to sample and deliver for analysis, cost can be as little as $20 expect say $35ish, but depends on how many kit's are purchased up front and what you would like included in the results, you will recieve a trained appraisal of any problems and future options. There are a couple of other non oil company companys also. Ring around for price.
Yamp a cold start is anytime the vehicle is started from cold like anytime the engine has not been started in 5 hours, without doubt the worst cold start is the one that warms it up by driving soon after startup as the amount of fuel injected into the cylinder on acceleration will not totally combust due to a still cold cylinder some will make it past the rings this contaminates the oil quickly, second worst is a cold start that results in less than say10km traveled before shutdown as the oil doesn't reach a high enough temperature for long enough to evaporate the water condensated from the last shutdown - promotes substances like sulfuric acid which happily attacks internals esp if the oil is not up to the task (another reason to use a HDDO). Both of these in regular combination and 5k drains is sometimes well long enough.
best advice is use what the vehicle manufacturer recommends in my navara str 3.0 litre turbo diesel i use mobile 4x4 which is an a3/b3 oil i have done 70000 klm in 11 months and had no troubles. my previous navara str 3.0 turbo diesel [ purchased in jan o3 ] did 260000 klm in 4 years i used the same oil in that vehicle as well- no troubles whatsoever. like what eveyone says the secret is changing the oil and filter every 5000 klms.
M8 ensure that your turbo diesel has either normal diesel oil or does it have synthitic oil. Dont mix these oils.
My 3lt turbo patrol has been on synthitic oil from day one
If you have a service history ring the dealership and they will
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