My last car (3.0l turbo diesel Patrol) was 10K service interval - had no problems. Not trying to bag early 4 cyl Toyota diesels BUT ten years ago I spent 18 LONG months diagnosing the oil samples @ Wear Check and they were shockers for sooting up the oil. Some of the samples could not be run through the full analysis as it was like jelly.
The common rail diesels have a better burn ratio than the injector pump old style type diesels hence the carbon buildup in the oil is lower and the change ratio is higher. Personally I am a 5k interval oil and filter changer but have the old style injector pump model. If you are going to DYI I would suggest that you always buy the same oil usually a turbo diesel detergent type such as delo 400 and stick with it. In respect to the change interval I would inspect the oil at 5000 see how dirty it is and how oily ask a diesel mechanic there are a few simple tests and then work out your change interval. oil is cheap motors cost $$$$Originally Posted by GT_warrior
Interesting that the most of you seem to agree that 5000k is the better interval for oil changes, I am nervous now as I have just purchased the 07 Rodeo TD common rail and the recommended intervals after the first 3k are 10k? What to do?
"light gear big fish big fun"
IMO you are getting good advice above, yes stick ridgedly to 5k or push to 6 if you have to 10k is too long, my patrol with the 4.2 was a moms taxi before I bought it and it had been dealer serviced since new at 10kwith crap automotive diesel oils, I call it dealer abused, it's the delers and the manufacturers interest.
Anyway I fitted a bypass filter and have ran to 10k but even with this and a known quality oil it was past it's use by, due mainly to a very high number of cold starts and short trips on that oil. Without the bypass 5K would have been where I dumped. An old addage is you cannot change your oil often enough and it still rings true as engine oil filters are still nothing more than rock catchers on the oil contamination scale.
cheers fnq
PS forgot to add that although the new engines when compared to the pre-comp engines are cleaner if a person sticks their mouth over the exhaust, this is in part achieved by the engine being designed to injest it's burnt exhaust gasses and gives the oil a very hard time of of it, as it needs to cope with this extra abuse, there is now a new diesel oil rating designed to address this problem, time will tell if it in fact does help.
Last edited by FNQCairns; 18-07-2007 at 08:45 AM.
Toyota were at 10 K for their Hilux's until they brought out the 3 litre to replace the 2.8's. I think they had a few warranty claims wth the first 3 litres so they changed it to 5k.
Seems like some cockys were doing a hard 10 k mostly in 4wd before changing the oil, which would be like doing 20 thousand for those of us who stay mostly on the bitumen. How much soot ends up in the oil between changes depends more on how many revolutions the motor has done than how many kilometers the tyres have travelled. The recommended intevals in the manual have a fair bit of padding in there so the manufacturer can cover their arse with warranty claims.
If I was doing mostly highway driving I wouldn't worry too much about going a couple of k over.
i have always changed at 10.000 ks and never had a problem 5000ks is a bit short if you use good oil and ive been driveing trucks and 4x4 s for 35 yrs and not had a problem
I would like to thank you all for the information provided. i had no idea it was so important to change your oil so regularly. i am mechanically illiterate and this site will help me to no end.
Probably the biggest key for servicing regularly is the changing of filters each time.
If you stick with a 5000km regime and change the filters everytime you will never develop oil flow problems in your motor and your oil pump will never wear out constantly grinding up minute particles of carbon and metal.
Jack
As was stated earlier OIL IS CHEAP compared to a rebuild on a diesel engine .............Mal
Cheap especially where you buy your oil from hey Mal
Cheers and beers
Scott
"Mystique" Haines Signature 580BR with 175 of Mr Suzuki's finest ponies
I got a 3ltr t/d lux and change oil every 5 thou and filters same. I started off with valvoline super diesel and have stayed with it. Thats what they kicked her over with when she was brand new so i've stuck with it. A mate has a cruiser ute 4.2 t/d and has used it since day dot as well. Its what toyota reccomend so i'll keep using it.
Cheers Adds..
I have also just got bought a 04 td auto rodeo, sounds like 5k intervals for oil/filer changes instead of 10k service intervals? ute has 65000kms on it,any advice on looking after it greatly appreciated, it used to be service in brisbane by ultratune not sure what oil they use? would it matter what oil I start using cheers yamp
Go the Caltex Delo 400 multigrade about $70-$85 per 20l drum my 'crusier has over 640k and honda 30hp o/b over 2000hrs. Change filter and oil regular 5000km or when it gets dirty as everyone else recommends. I DYI my veichle and boats. Both diesel and petrol engines love it. Old farmer at Gundi started me on it, one oil in all motors on the farm from 500hp turbo cotton headers about $600 000 machine down to stationary motors worth $500. His oil samples always tested well from the lab. It has one of the best soot suspending abilities for the $$$. Any modern oil diesel sold in 20l drums will be suitable and as said start with one type and stay with it, even if you have to supply your own oil to the mechanics
Yamp the test for a diesel oil starts at about 250,000km and ends at about 750,000+, if your engine has not sludged, maxed out on valve lash clearances or elsewhere etc within a point in this range somewhere it is a good oil, where in that range denotes how good, so in all reality if you plan on going this far with your oil then it is worthwhile finding a really good one esp if the plan is to have the original engine outlast the body.
Also dont believe the thick oils that are sold by some makers do any engine that's in good condition a favour either. 40 wt is the max 30wt is the min (unless oil fired injectors then do exactly what the manufacturers recomend, and thats a shame).
Bottom line is if you get your engine serviced by someone specify a CI4 oil, at the very very very least a CH4, science says these can do the job, no urban myths, marketing, out-dated vehicle maufacturer recomendations or brand loyalty need apply.
cheers fnq
Last edited by FNQCairns; 22-07-2007 at 10:42 PM.
Have used Penrite in my 94 Troopy since new - now 300k+ and no worries. Secret is regular changes. I know it is expensive - Troopy takes 9 litres a change - but still cheaper than a new motor.
thanks for advice fella ended up going for caltex delo 400 $115 I was also looking into brimrose oils,advice form came back recommending
The Engine uses New Generation 15w40
, The Gearbox uses DX 111,and the Two Diffs use 75w140 Synthetic. This saves having a different oil for each diff and the Synthetic has about a quarter of the drag which gives much better fuel Consumption. My Upper Cylinder Lubricant and Fuel Treatment will give much better Fuel consumption, and your fuel system will never need repairing. just wondering if anyone has used these product or advice on the addictives regarding fuel economy
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