Purchasing second-hand boat.....checklist

[frankgrimes]

Hi,

Am getting very close to purchasing my first boat(Tinny), and was hoping some of you could provide suggestions on things that should be done/confirmed prior to committing to a purchase.

i.e.

To check boats “viability” - I'll need: Registration Number, Hull Identification Number (HIN), and Engine number...anything else?


- Ensuring the boat/trailer/motor are free from encumbrances (Via REVs?)
- Ensuring the boat/trailer/motor are not stolen(QLD Police?)
- Structural integrity of hull....Visual inspection(Cracked Welds etc)...should I be paying for an "expert" to do this?
- Motor – Make sure it starts! Compression Test?(Is it something I should ask the seller to provide? Is it something that can be done at the sellers premises easily….or must the motor be taken to a mechanic?), Look for obvious oil leaks?
- Trailer – Visual Inspection(Rust,Cracks), Bearings – How do you check to make sure they are ok easily?(Don’t want to be driving the boat home and one of the wheels seizes up!)

Any other pointers/suggestions are greatly appreciated!

[Homer_Jay]

Hey there Grimey!!!!

[frankgrimes]

Haha!!! Gold!

[reidy_g]

Some good tips on this site:

http://www.aussieboats.com.au/buyingtips.asp

Good luck.

[BM]

Here is a post I responded to from another forum some time back (although mainly aimed at fibreglass boats):

"Such a long answer required for such a little question......

Floor transom and engine are your main things to check.

Use a hammer on the floor or the heel of your foot to check for soft spots.

Trim the engine out to 45 degrees and push down hard on the prop. There should be no movement of the transom. Then tap around the transom with a big ring/open ended spanner (or similar) listening for sound differences. Dull noise=rot.

Check underneath for any cracks. Small gelcoat cracks running lengthwise are usually ok. Cracks running across the boat usually indicate a break in the hull.

Buy a compression guage from Supercheap or K-Mart (often cheaper than Supercheap) and check the comps. Crank the engine the same number of times for each cylinder and note the results. Below 100 psi is not desired generally. But more importantly, the readings should be within 10% of each other. If they are not, walk away.

Unscrew the gearbox drain (in bottom of leg) and let a little oil out. If only water comes out you have problems. If milky oil comes out you have problems. Old oil will usually be black. New oil is often blue or honey coloured or green.

Operate the power trim up and down repeatedly making sure it moves smoothly and freely. Power trim is incredibly expensive.

Turn the wheel back and forth. It should move freely and easily. If its tight the steering may need replacing.

Start the engine and have a good listen to the block (watch your head on the flywheel). Knocks or rattles are problems. A quiet engine will only make a "choof, choof" noise which is air induction into the carbies.

Shift in and out of forward and reverse gear. Should shift easily and without crunching. Make sure you shift quickly, really "snap" the controls into gear. Going slowly will chew the teeth and the shift dog. Whilst its in gear have a look at the prop shaft and see that its running true. Dont look at the prop coz they often look out of true. Look at the shaft in the centre.

Switch on anything electrical in the boat and then toss your multimeter across the battery. If your getting 13.5volts plus then your charge circuit is ok (if the engine has one).

Preferably you next want to run the engine in the water or in a test tank to truly assess it.

If you are looking at (in particular) a 4 cylinder 80hp or 85hp blueband Merc or a 75hp brownband Merc (same engine) or in fact any older Merc blueband and brownband then you MUST TEST IT in water or a test tank.

These engines, particularly the aforementioned 80, 85 and 75 suffer from a situation that occurs at a certain stage of engine wear. They can have excellent compression, sound ok running, but shift into gear when in the water (or test tank) and they will die. There is essentially no fix for this.... Except for a total rebuild and then some including new reed blocks, pistons and quite possibly crankshaft and block. NOT VIABLE.

So beware any older Merc that seems to have a really high idle setting. It's usually an indicator of the dreaded disease....

Have a good look at the trailer. People often think trailers are cheap but for the average 17ft boat a new trailer (say Dunbier or Mackay) is around $3000. Axles and springs aren't a huge concern, but the frame is. Springs are about $30 each to buy and the axle although rusty will normally be fine. A rusted out frame is going to cost you bucks...

Other things to check include all your electrical items. Switch on the fishfinder Gps etc to make sure they arent missing pixels from their displays (quite common). 27 Mhz radios lose their display segments too. Nav lights, anchor light, general 12v wiring etc. Check canopy and cover fabrics and frames.

Think that about covers it.....

Cheers"

[rat_catcher]

CHECKING SECOND HAND BOAT MOTOR TRAILER

MOTOR:

• Check the motor size against manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Check maintenance schedule in Owners Manual & check service history.
• Check that motor is not overdue for a service.
• Check zinc anode under anti-ventilation plate.
• Check prop for nicks and dints.
• Spin the prop, check free and shaft not bent.
• Check fuel lines and filters.

TRAILER:

• Check BMT weight < 2 tonne.
• Weight is an indication of trailer requirements and water logging.
• Check boat tied down to trailer both fore and aft.
• Check springs and axels.
• Check wheels and that seals are not splattering grease under boat.
• Jack up each wheel at a time check rotation and grasp wheel and try to wobble.
• Check brakes, discs for rust and warping, drums for corrosion and overall operation.
• Check lights.
• Check winch, wire and that post is secure and not bent.
• Check welds for cracks.
• Check tyres, rims and spare.
• Check tyres for load rating.
• Check condition and security of mudguards.
• Check all rollers and supports.

VESSEL ON LAND:

• Contact the builder for information.
• Is the boat registered and when does it expire.
• Check steering for play.
• Check that the clears work properly to their studs.
• Check windscreen.
• Check upholstery for cuts and cracks, heck for water logging, check ply base for rot.
• Lift up carpet floor and check for trapped moister and hull under.
• Use the outboard as a lever to check stability of pod and transom.
• Tap glass with a mallet and listen for rot behind.
• Check along bottom of keel for damage.

VESSEL ON WATER:

• Drain hull prior to launching.
• Two or three standing on one side with vessel stopped
• Motor should start > 6 turns of the start key.
• Listen carefully for odd noises.
• In idle engine should run evenly and smoothly.
• Check that RPM on tacho are stable.
• Check for strong jet of water from the engine.
• Move throttle slowly from neutral to fwd and back into reverse, this should not be an effort.
• Above changes should be smooth and direct without gronking or wining noises.
• Throttle should be firm but not stiff.
• Underway on the plane boat should turn to port and stbd with ease and no gronking.
• Let go the wheel and boat should continue to steer straight.
• Hydraulic steering check or free play, fluid leaks and reservoir level.
• Run the engine out to its top RPM, usually 5,000 to 6,000 RPM.
• If it attains the RPM recommended by manufacturer it indicates that correct prop is fitted.
• If it does not attain full RPM it is over propped.
• An over propped engine is overloaded.
• Remove the engine cover and briefly place the back of our hand to any part of the engine.
• Back at ramp remove drain from hull.
• Also if possible remove a small amount of oil from gear box

[seatime]

a couple of other items to ensure you're legal when using the boat;

noticed a brand new rig the other day with the rego sticker on the starboard side of the centre console.
rego stickers have to placed as near as practicable to the rego numbers on the outside of the hull port side. possible $75 fine.

if the boat doesn't have a manufacturers plate or Australian Builders Plate listing maximum number of persons the boat can carry, and in a place to be easily seen from the helm position, you must attach a Capacity Label in a place viewable from the helm position. possible $150 fine.

cheers

[frankgrimes]

Thanks fellas - Some fantastic tips there!

Is it cost effective/worthwhile to pay someone to check the boat out for me?(Is there anyone that actually offers this type of a service?)

[reidy_g]

When buying secondhand I reckon its worth getting an expert to look over it regardless of the cost. With sort of money you are shelling out to buy and with the safety of you and loved ones at stake its a worthwhile investment. Plus its piece of mind that you know what you're buying - and you may be able to negotiate down off anything negative found. Someone like Australian Marine Inspections (www.amiami.com.au) can do it - but there's plenty of others around as well.

[ashh]

Looks like you have most of it covered.
Last but not least, try, if possible, take it for a test on the water.
No point buying it if its got all the gear you want , but turns out to be a bumpy wet riding boat.
Also gives you a good chance to have a look for leaks in the hull

[Redspeckle]

If buy a boat on trailer that's over 750 kgs must have trailer brakes I always see boats on trailers ( Not so old trailers) for sale that don't have trailer brakes when over 750kg
Make sure tow vehicle is rated in towing capacity for it or void the insurance happen be in accident
Mitch