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Make sure the end with the prop on it is at the bottom.................
Mike
G'day all.
I will be installing a new ( secondhand) outboard on my rig soon and i am just after any little tips, tricks, or recommendations from those who have done it b4.
Cheers,
Damo
Give a man a fish, and he'll eat for a day. But ,flogging him into submission will result in him taking up crabbing.... and once he gets a taste of that sh*t, well, he may never return again.
Make sure the end with the prop on it is at the bottom.................
Mike
but it doesn't have a prop on it!!.....Geez, now i'm really confusedOriginally Posted by Marlin_Mike
Make sure the end with the prop on it is at the bottom.................
Mike
Give a man a fish, and he'll eat for a day. But ,flogging him into submission will result in him taking up crabbing.... and once he gets a taste of that sh*t, well, he may never return again.
aside from the very obvious, like make sure it is centred and vertical, the shaft length is correct, you only use good quality stainless bolts and you know how to do the final adjustments, it is very basic, but quite time consuming thing to do (thats why it costs a bit from a dealer, it takes time to do) I am doing a pair of 175 Merc optis next weekend.
Noelm, i take it you mean the throttle and gearshift linkage adjustments. I am pretty mechanical myself as i troubleshoot and repair manufacturing equipment for a living, but have never done an outboard install b4. What is the correct method to determine these adjustments are right???
Damo
Give a man a fish, and he'll eat for a day. But ,flogging him into submission will result in him taking up crabbing.... and once he gets a taste of that sh*t, well, he may never return again.
in simple terms, make sure the gear lever (on the motor) is in neutral, and then the shift lever (control box) is in neutral position, then fit cable and adjust "runner" to make sure it is operating in both gears and neutral, then throttle the same, throttle arm in idle position, control in netural, and adjust cable to fit, make sure you have oil in the petrol, or tank if it is an "auto oiler" make sure all fittings are tight and not leaking, put it in the water (or on muffs) and give it a kick and see what happens.
make shore your main foil (forgot the correct name) in at least in line with the bottom of the hull.
I didnt do this to mine and had dramas after dramas. once i lifted it its like a whole new boat.
neil
And use Sikaflex (can't remember the number but someone here will know)and not silicone around the bolts and under the washers to make a good seal.
If there are old holes make sure they're either repaired or sealed really well if it's a glass boat
How big a motor are you bunging on??
Sometimes an engine crane saves a lot of manual labour when they're getting up in motor size.
Make sure the pad between the motor and the hull is in good nick. Now's the time to check it if needed.
Take your time before drilling any holes...measure 138 times (if needed) and drill once.
Drink beer after the job is done and all is well.
I intend on living for-ever....so far so good
G'day
Main Foil is the anti cavitation plate.
Finga, are you thinking of sika 291?
Maybe nice to run the cables and lines into some sort of large loom tube to tidy the whole lot up.
Dave
Deiter,
Your horizontal and vertical engine alingment is quite critical so spend some time on this setup. You will require an engine crane to do so. $300
Gearshift cable will be an easy adjust as mentioned. With the gearbox in nuetral adjust your cable anchor accordingly.
With your throttle cable make sure you allow a small amount of preload on the cable so that any cable/control slack is taken up and the throttle lever always returns the throttle arm to the stop position.
Bunnings do a 20mtr roll of plastic tubing (in the plumbing section) about 50mm diameter that is ideal for running cabling. You can also purchase the transom fittings to give it a neat appearance (not a Bunnings item though).....
Cheers
Last edited by BM; 02-07-2007 at 06:31 PM.
When doing up stainless bolts make sure thread is clean and lubricated.
Cheers, guys. I will NOT be mounting the engine, the dealer is doing that. Its going on a 5.5m plate Profish and i will be doing the rest. I figure there is plenty of toys i can buy with the $600 in my pocket, and hey, how hard can it be with the entire cumulative intellectual knowledge and experience of Ausfish behind me.
Damo
Give a man a fish, and he'll eat for a day. But ,flogging him into submission will result in him taking up crabbing.... and once he gets a taste of that sh*t, well, he may never return again.
, and hey, how hard can it be with the entire cumulative intellectual knowledge and experience of Ausfish behind me.
Damo
And for a moment there i thought you would have no problems!! Blew it at the finish
ian
Deiter,
from what you have said, the dealer will take care of the horizontal and vertical alignment of the motor, and the gear and throttle linkage setup has been described by Noelm and BM. My advice is to think seriously about using a hydraulic kit for the steering. I changed mine over a while ago, not difficult, and it's much easier to use the boat. Money well spent. Big (but untried) advantage is that my kids can now steer the boat in an emergency, prior to that they would have struggled.
Deiter, if need a hand, send me PM, I have done it a number of times. cheers Pete.
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