Finishing Off Jagged Edges inside boat

[Splash]

Hi Team.

Jut completed cutting some pieces (small internal wall/non-structural bits) from front of boat.

I have cut as much as I can without damaging the hull with jigsaw and grinder.

Now, jagged bits remain that are connected to hull and I don't widh to use the jigsaw/grnder for fear of going through the hull.

What tool(s) can i use to safely get rid of these jagged bits?

- material about 12-14mm ply about 40-50 high by around 1.0m long...

Splash

[blaze]

4" grinder with a cut off wheel, just be carefull but it wont be the first time a hole has been cut into a hull. They fix easy.
cheers
blaze
ps
I thought you would have been fishing by now

[Splash]

HI Blaze.

I have been using the 4" grinder with cut-off wheel - but just too hesitant to go any further...

Do u have a recommened wheel type/grade I should be using?

Nearly finsihed Blaze - this is the last little bit really. I have opened up the frotn area underneath by cutting out the crappy internal shelving that was there..

Photos to come of complete product soon!

Splash.

[blaze]

just go easy, not sure of the discs I use but they are very thin, about 1/16". Its the easiest way to remove those tedius little bits.
cheers
blaze

[finga]

They're used for cutting stainless steel.
When you go to the tool shop, Splash old mate, just ask for the ones to use with stainless.

I have a 30 (or is it 20??? Dunno unless I count) tooth tungsten tipped blade for the 4". It'll do all the trimming you want in fiberglass. What a lend?? Just have to watch the knuckles

I also have one of those little power files...you know the electric tool that uses a sanding belt about a 1/2 wide. Looks a bit like an anteaters beak.
Brilliant to use and forgiving as well. I have used it to cut holes and enlarge holes in fiberglass and works a treat

[finga]

Just like this bugger
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Black-Decker-...QQcmdZViewItem

[Splash]

Thanks boys - will check out Bunnings tomorrow for the blades and power file.

Re: those power files, won't the belt quickly become ragged with this thickness ply? How durable is the belt for hard sharp edges etc.

Splash

[Deiter]

Mate, just go for it, what's the worst that can happen?

oops, just seen your avatar....

[Roughasguts]

Hi splash, the ol'e dremmel, ain't a bad tool to use for finishing in tight spots.
All it is, is a 150 wat power tool that can spin up to 30,000 rpm.
You put various bits in it to do the work, a small drum type sander would be pretty good or small routing bit.

There are cheaper versions of the dremmel, same thing probably better from around 30 bucks, with some bits and pieces to go with it.

The dremmel is around 150 bucks, but there all much the same somewhat like a hand held Dentist drill.

[blaze]

if you go gently with the grinder you can see the joint you need to cut out, the grinder will work a treat. the other disc finga suggusted is good for straight glass but they will grip and could go any where (brother in law cut the tendions in his wrist/hand with one, 2 years later still has problems)
cheers
blaze

[Splash]

Thansk for tip boys! - No tendon work for me - sounds nasty.

Guts - I have one of these little power tools with all the bits - but looks too soft for the work - have not tried it yet.

Splash

[finga]

The belts for those power files are pretty hardy but will break if pushed too hard or on ali or steel. They're pretty cheap though (well at least down here). They're just normal sanding belts cut into thin strips.
The little circular saw blade is a nasty bit of gear and I only use it as a last resort. When it goes in every safety guard, wear etc goes on.
A sanding disc in the 4" will wittle down edges fairly well.
No quick way of doing this job. Mainly just patience is needed to get a good result.

[Splash]

Many thanks.

Re: power files - will the belts come with it already cut to size? I hate cutting them out myself.

[finga]

Many thanks.

Re: power files - will the belts come with it already cut to size? I hate cutting them out myself.

Yep, they sure do digger

[Owen]

Just a small safety note.
Most of the guys advocating the use of cutting discs are probably aware already, but there are a lot of people reading who may not know.

Abrasive cutting discs are designed to cut straight into metal on their edge. I.E the only point that should be in contact is the circumference. DO NOT put side load on them by using them as a grinding disc or trying to gouge metal out with them. The reinforcing in these discs is a single layer close to the surface (looks like crosshatched string). Wear through it and the disc will come apart (like removing the reinforcing from concrete). Similarly, please ensure you have the correct size backing plates & retaining nuts for the disc in question and that the guard is fitted and turned so that it will actually offer protection.

Being in the business I am, I have seen the end result of misuse of grinders many times. The injuries Blaze describes are very common. I talked to one guy that was rehabilitating from the loss of two fingers and a testicle - all from a grinder that grabbed and took off.

That said, with proper care and an awareness of where the tool is going to travel if something goes wrong, they can be the best tool for the job.
"Meat-axe" blades that finga describes to go on grinders are great tools, but can be deadly. I also used to use one on aluminium that was designed for wood carving. It had replaceable circular lathe tips attached to it.
Was great for gouging out welds but prone to fracture if not used at the correct revs.