configuring a new trailer to suit boat

[cjockey]

hey guys

just got myself a new drive-on, multi roller trailer.
prior to this, had a basic setup with skids.

can anyone give me some advise on balancing and setting up the new trailer to match the boat.

thanks in advance.

[Hagar]

I have done a couple - here's my two bobs worth .

Get hold of a full size floor jack like they use at tyre shops - forget the toys . Plus a short block of 4x4 timber . Also some spanners for the clamp nuts - a ratchet and socket is quicker . I remove / grease and refit all the bolts and nuts beforehand .

Go to the ramp at a QUIET time with both trailers and another helper . Pre set the carriages so they are approximately close and float it onto the new trailer . Only pull partially out and check nothing is touching / mudguard height is OK . If good then pull out and use the jack and block to get the rollers all on one side taking same load . Dont worry if the boat is not level on the trailer just get one side right and then raise or lower the other side to level it up . When I have done this I go around and fine adjust each assembly as it can change as you move others . My aim is to get the boat as low on the trailer as I can with adequate clearance on the mudguards . Move the winch post fore and aft to get the rear rollers correct and the winch up down to get the tow eye the right height for the cable . Takes a coulple of hours and a six pack . Trailers with keel rollers and side rollers I reckon are easier than full multi roller - just my observations .

Chris

[fishingrod]

Hagar is on the money in his above reply. Especially greasing all the bolts and anything else you can see. I did my wheel stud threads too. Its soooo much easier to fiddle with things with the boat off the trailer (and before the nuts have ceased hehe)

A good jack is a must as already stated. You will find after towing it home it will shift about a bit and you might need to fine tune after a couple of trips. If you park your trailer in a unlevel area at home it may alter a bit too. I was extremely fussy about getting my rollers with the most even load as possible (ive got double keel rollers and side multi roller cradles on a 'glass boat) I actually spent a couple of months making tiny adjustments , but its worth it as its perfect now.

When recovering for the very first time dont winch it too far forward. I came within 1cm of knocking my trasducer and LBT pick up off the back. My guestimated winch post position was a little bit too far forward.

Depending on what planing stakes you have, you need to make sure that the rollers do not cross over the stakes on the way up the trailer, otherwise they will act like railway tracks and skew the hull off to the side if a roller gets caught running along the edge of a stake.

Some of the wobble rollers can be a bit hard to grease as they may have a spring and washer arrangement. I got a aerosol can of teflon enhanced spray grease ($15) that sets semi solid. That made it easy with a quick squirt.

If you have cable brakes, pump some grease into the nipples on the coupling. Dont adjust the cable tension until the boat is on the trailer and you are happy with the towball weight (axle position). The load of the boat sags the springs slightly and alters the cable length/tension. I normally set my "hand brake lever thingy" with about 5-10mm free play (boat loaded) before the pads engauge.

Give yourself a solid 2-4 hours to get it done if you have not done one before. If you have a couple of solid (safe) timber planks to drive the trailer onto, use them. It will give you other 10-15cm of space under the trailer if your crawling around.

If you are adjusting anything try not to place your body under the roller adjustment stems incase one slips down and stabs you.

Check the wiring. Who ever stripped my cables cut the insulation exposing the wires underneath outside the water tight housing. So i just re-terminated a few of the cables. Mines only got cheap lights, but i sparayed the terminals inside with corrosion guard (or WD or silicon spray etc). A bit of extra preparation when new might help down the track.

I gave my trailer heavy 2 coats (2 litres) all over of fish oil to help protect it. Its sticky and smelly for a a couple of weeks but for $40 it was worth it i reckon. You can also use Lanoguard i think, or other similar products.

A photo is below of mine the day i got it. Its only cheap trailer in the scheme of things. Ive added a extra set of quad rollers on the most forward cross member now + LED side clearance lights

cheers
Rod

[litenup]

One option is use a tape to get it set up first off. Measuring to get the rollers in approx same place and height gives you a starting point. Once boat is on trailer then can adjust to get them right.
Or just put it on, move rollers so that boat sits on them. Get the winch post done so that last rollers are as close to transom as possible to give support to the transom. The tow eye is supposed to be under the support roller on winch post, supposed to stop boat ending up on top of car in emergency stop!! Previous advice all good, ramp is good option. Cheers Pete

[cjockey]

really apprecaite all of the above info guys.
its fantastic information and very helpful.
thanks again.