Installing Nav Lights

[BigMav]

G'day, I'm looking at installing some nav lights on my 4.5m tinny runabout and am looking for ideas on where to mount them. I'd rather not drill into the hull if I can get away with it. I was thinking the side of the perspex windscreen might be the go, anyone got any other ideas? Also what do people think of the L.E.D. lights, I know they will use stuff all power which I like but can't say I'm a fan of the white lenses.

[finga]

LED are the way to go.
Stuff all power used and no blown bulbs.
Any picture of your boat matey and suggestions will follow.

[BigMav]

Thanks finga, here's a pic. Not a good one but you get the idea.

[finga]

The windscreen looks like the go but be verrrrry, verrrrry careful drilling the holes and don't tension the nuts and bolts too much. Don't use self tapping screws of any description otherwise you may get a crack in the perspex.
Try not to get too close to an edge either. 40mm or so may be alright.
They make single nav. light units (with both red and green) that go near where you bollard is but that'll only get in the way of the anchor rope etc.
Hopefully somebody else will have some ideas as well.
Has your boat been used much??
Both boat and trailer look very, very spiffy and clean. You must look after them well

[BigMav]

Thanks finga, I've only had the boat for about a month or so and that shot was taken when I bought it. The previous owner hadn't used it much at all, it was covered in dust from lack of use. Its in pretty good nick for its age. I like the savage hull and the 60 merc pushes it along very well.

[moater]

G'day,

You could try the plastic accessory clamps that are great for tubing?If you had a small piece of alumimum plate to mount your port & starboard lights on you could affix it to a clamp on each side and have each inboard of the railing so they're not too likely to get broken when pulling up alongside moorings/jetties etc...it makes me cringe when I see the lights on each side just sticking out like the proverbial,just waiting to get smashed off .

With my larger boat (4.2 Dory) the side lights are mounted on a plate that's welded to the rail and gunwale.It also has shaped pieces top & bottom to give extra protection.They're in from the rail a bit & there's very little chance of damage.The aluminium's about 4mm thick.

Have fun,nice boat

Darren

[henryk]

bias boating catalog item cat 6313 mount for nav lights. goes onto the rail.

even though it's for their T Top it might work on your rails. you will need to check diameters

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[SNAPPERCOFFIN]

If you put it onto the windsceen 3m make some top products to stick it on. Once you have drilled into the sceen can still crack later with a bit of movement.

Mark

[BigMav]

If you put it onto the windsceen 3m make some top products to stick it on. Once you have drilled into the sceen can still crack later with a bit of movement.

Mark

Thats a good point, now just need some way of hiding the wires.

[frankj]

This is what I did on my old stacer.

Frank

[boatie]

mate defently go with the LEDs because you put them on and then forget about them. no annoying bulbs to blow and very little power usage. the bulbs in the buld type can sometimes come out of the bulb holder if you are operating in a bit of rough stuff and then you need to pull it apart 2 fix it.

Boatie

[FNQCairns]

Big mav just one piece of advice put them as far to the outside of the boat as you can, the reflection back can be a pain. I saw yesterday some flush fitted to the outside skin of a 15 foot tinny below the rub rail so those are available also.

How far forward is still legal or back is still legal? if anyone knows.

cheers fnq

[finga]

It's not a matter of how far forward or aft but angles.
Here's a link and picture
http://www.msq.qld.gov.au/Home/Safet...n_lights_image
http://www.msq.qld.gov.au/Home/Safet...gation_lights/

[FNQCairns]

Thanks finga for posting those links.

cheers fnq

[big moose]

g'day FNQCairns,
u could stick them on the screen with sikaflex and hide the wires in convoluted split conduit also stuck in place with sikaflex or for bolted application to avoid cracking first tape screen with masking or gaffa tape mark holes and drill at slowest speed you can. also if you drill oversize and fit rubber gromets to holes then bolt through gromets this will allow some movement without loading the screen

regards big moose