chevron wrap query

[mikeyh]

Hi there,
when you are making decorative spiral wraps (chevrons) how do you stop the top thread from creeping back down the underbind? When you mark out the underbind and begin spiralling the thread upwards, I find that when you get to the top mark (to turn back down the underbind) the thread slips down a bit which is annoying because the diamond is not exactly the same size as the others because the angle is different. I have built many rods over the years and once epoxied you can hardly notice it but I wanted to know if there was some trick I could use...thanks

[roz]

Are you measuring out the points for your layout threads?

Or are you judging it by eye?

You also may need to cut your thread into the correct length for one single 'pass'.

That's if I am understanding your problem, I'll appologize in advance if I have read you incorrectly.

r.

[mikeyh]

Thanks Roz,
I always measure which also has to be done exactly to ensure the points on the opposite side of the blank are in fact 180 degrees opposite (never by eye.....no part of my rod building is done by eye except working out runner spacings on a new blank). If you make "stretched" diamonds (from diamonds close together) it isnt as bad because thread angle is smaller. Maybe I am too fussy. By the way your weaving is beautiful - I havent tried that style of butt work - have seen it in a few books however never had a go.

cheers, Mike

[bung]

You could use a small piece of masking tape to help stopping the threads from creeping back down the blank. Alternatively you can make the wrap one or 2 intervals longer than required, then overbind in the correct position and trim the excess.

[roz]

Thanks Roz,
I always measure which also has to be done exactly to ensure the points on the opposite side of the blank are in fact 180 degrees opposite (never by eye.....no part of my rod building is done by eye except working out runner spacings on a new blank). If you make "stretched" diamonds (from diamonds close together) it isnt as bad because thread angle is smaller. Maybe I am too fussy. By the way your weaving is beautiful - I havent tried that style of butt work - have seen it in a few books however never had a go.

cheers, Mike

I think it might pay you to cut your thread into single lengths (one pass from left to right) ...I still hope I am reading you correctly, that way you won't have one length of thread pulling against another, because they will be single lengths of thread, I think I used to make the same mistake as you.... I'm bloody hopeless at explaining things, it's called 'Roz speak'.

If you post a pic of the problem perhaps???? and post a pic of your chevrons.

thanks for the compliment , but what I do is called cross wrapping not weaving. Cross wrapping is exactly what you are doing.


Stu and Myles are going to have tanties when they read that!!!! they do weaving , which is for woosies.

r.

[ldnicolai1@comcast.n]

I use double-sided tape intended to hole carpets down to secure the thread at the end of a butt wrap. Here is a Seeker 670 getting a butt treatment. I use a piece of PVC pipe that has a slot cut its entire 6" length to slide over the foam foregrip. I then squeeze it tight and tape it on so that it cannot slide. This prevents the foam from collapsing as I add layers of thread.

On the up end of the blank, I first tack down a piece of paper towel with masking tape, then put the double sided tape on the paper towel. Otherwise you would never get the tape off the blank.

Here is the beginning of a long buttwrap (about 8 1/2" after the tie-offs).


Here it is completed except for finish...


Here you can see the importance of careful measuring....perfect diamonds.