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Thread: Trailer hub/seal question

  1. #1

    Trailer hub/seal question

    I just replaced the bearing in my trailer using a holden style 'boat trailer' kit, with the marine seal. The trailer has 10" wheels with the hub and wheel all one piece. The steel insert for the seal is very loose into the hub, that loose that when assembled, the seal stays still with the axle instead of rotating with the wheel.
    Is the hub a different diameter for standard and marine applicatiopns, or is it likely my hub is just worn? There doesnt appear to be a lip on the hub , which is what I would expect if its worn.
    Thanks

  2. #2

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    Hamish, sounds like wheel/hub is worn. If considering replacing, look at buying hub and bolt on wheel. The hub is steel so doesn't wear like the alloy one you have. It's a typical fault of the integral wheel. The separate wheel is better if get a flat tyre, don't have to deal with bearing, grease etc when changing. Active Fabfications at Beenleigh is the best place to buy. Cheers Pete.

  3. #3

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    Thanks pete, got the other 1/2 of the trailer from active fab.
    Just got new tyres etc so might look at making a shim sleeve, or try some normal rubber seals

  4. #4

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    You could try some speedy sleeves.
    You get them from CBC at Slacks Creek.

    Sounds like the bearings have failed at some stage and worn the alloy away on the inside.

  5. #5

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    the bearing is still tight to install once past the seal surface, just loose at the outer edge. Will look into it next week. Thanks guys

  6. #6

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    correct me if i am wrong but i was under the impression that the rubber black seal is not meant to move when the wheel spins: your setup sounds as if it is operating as it should be.

  7. #7

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    how loose is loose sound like it could be the wrong seal or posibly worn hub but if the seal is spinning inside the hub then it wont ake long before it is worn

    no 1337 the seal should be fixed in the hub so it spins against the axle

  8. #8

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    something sounds screwy.

    Like 1337 says the metal bit should go round with the wheel and the ribbed neoprene seal stay fixed to the axle. Are you sure you are putting it together the right way?

    I always pack the seal with grease too to keep the water out of the bigger inside bearing.

  9. #9

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    Quote Originally Posted by littlejim View Post
    something sounds screwy.

    Like 1337 says the metal bit should go round with the wheel and the ribbed neoprene seal stay fixed to the axle. Are you sure you are putting it together the right way?
    anyone wlse got an opinion on this?
    I've always thought the seal should rotate with the wheel, like a normal automotive application.

  10. #10
    Ausfish Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    East of Rockhampton

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    The seal stays fixed to the axle, it does not revolve. The stainless steel cup insert must be a tight, tap in fit into the hub. The flanges of the seal run inside the stainless steel insert. The tight fit in the hub is what stops the water seeping past the insert. If the insert is loose, ie, you can move it with your fingers even a small amount, then the Stainless Steel insert is the wrong size for your hub. You MUST take it back and get the correct kit to suit whatever hubs/wheel you have.
    The stainless steel make a perfect seal surface because it is so shiny and smooth. This shiny surface alows the flanges of the seal to slide smoothly around the insert with very little friction.

    Eagle

  11. #11

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    Eagles got it down pat

  12. #12

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    thanks guys, you learn something every day

  13. #13

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    Hamish

    There are 2 different types of hub seals.

    One type fits tightly into the hub, and spins on the shaft.

    The other fits tightly on the shaft and spins in a stainless sleeve pressed into the hub.

    Sounds like the one you have is the 2 piece unit that is supposed to fit tight onto the shaft. The stainless sleeve must be a tight fit into the hub.

    Ford and Holden bearings should be the same diameter on the outside (Just the axle diameter that is different from memory)

    When you changed the bearings, were the bearing cups a neat tapped fit into the hub? If they were loose, they would be wrong and that would be why your seal didn't fit.

    If they were a nice tap fit into the hub with a dolly, then your seal is the wrong size.

    Your seal needs to have the stainless sleeve tapped into the hub so it is tight, and the inner rubber must be a tight fit over the axle. This acts as a grease labrynth to keep grease in and water out.

    You don't have to use the 2 piece seal though. 2 piece is generally better for keeping water out, but the one piece seals are ok as well with proper maintenance.

    When you take it apart again, measure the axle shaft with a vernier caliper for the seal and bearing inner diameters, then take those measurements with the hub to the parts shop and get the right units.

    cheers
    Last edited by trueblue; 07-04-2007 at 05:31 PM.

  14. #14

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    thanks guys.
    The bearing sheels were tight when driven dome, but a tad loose in the seal area. I have the right seals , but the wheel is just a tad worn. You still have to tap the stainless sleeve in, it's not that loose that it falls in, it's just not tight enough. I will sleeve it and it'll be good to go.

  15. #15

    Re: Trailer hub/seal question

    contact cleaner to degrease it and 680 loctite!

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