PHP Warning: Use of undefined constant VBA_SCRIPT - assumed 'VBA_SCRIPT' (this will throw an Error in a future version of PHP) in ..../includes/functions_navigation.php(802) : eval()'d code on line 1
bilge pumps advice please
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 21

Thread: bilge pumps advice please

  1. #1

    bilge pumps advice please

    Looking to fit a bilge pump to my 4.2m runabout. the mounting plates are there, one on the bottom near the bungs and one on the side. My question is which type of pump will do the job, i know very little about them so an idea on make model or price range would be great.
    Thanks all.
    Jewie

  2. #2
    G'day
    Rhule make goos pumps, as do johnson. You'd be looking around $30 for a suitable sized one for your boat.

    I have a 360gph rhule in my 12' tinny, never ever missed a beat.

    You can get them from all chandleries.

    Dave

  3. #3
    I can't remember which is which but one of the above mentioned pumps had a stainless shaft and the other a steel shaft.
    Ask the salesman what's the difference between the two.
    And go for longest warantee.
    When you wash the boat out, leave the bungs in for a tad and run the pump for awhile to get all the salt out. Amasing how much longer they last when you do that.

  4. #4
    Ausfish Platinum Member Roo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Use the Rule pump. they are hard to fault. others will rust up quick as a flash.

    I would go up a size to at least a 500gph for a 4.2 tinny, or even to a 1100gph if you think you might head outside on a smooth day. The 1100gph rule is only about $50 and takes a 25mm hose, so it will clear any water real quick.

    cheers, roo.

  5. #5
    Ausfish Silver Member GAD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Gordonvale
    Mate a few years back it rained so hard when I was out flicking lures , dark stormy lightning flashing wet season rain, really should have gone home but the barra were on so I fished on , the boat filled up with so much water and I couldn't bail enough out from between the esky and tackle boxes couldn't get the boat on the plane, slow trip got it back to the ramp full of water and me mate in his wasn't much better, had a torrid time getting her up on the trailer, got home draining water all the way in a constant flow. Never Again, next day went in to town and bought a bilge pump installed it that day in my 3.7 tinnie got a 360gph , now when the wet season hits and thats when Barra are on best , I can still go out flicking lures and with a flick of the switch the boat bails itself and I dont have to try to bail in the gaps between gear or remove the bung to drain it on the move.

    Greg
    Give a man a fish and feed him for a day , teach a man to fish and feed him for life .

  6. #6
    rule pumps are the go get a good output one
    500glh plus can wire them into a float switch or a toggle switch which ever siuts your boat

  7. #7
    Just to throw a spanner in the works, I don't find the rhule pump that good.
    Had 2 fail on me but never, well so far a johnson.

    Johno's, cheaper anyway so buy a spare.

  8. #8
    I have a new johnson. The old johnson seized the shaft.

    I think finga the Ruhl's have the stainless shaft?

    Johnson alot cheaper. I have a ruhl mounted to the transom outside, it pumps into my live bait tank. Never missed a beat in 3 years

    Mike


    Mike

  9. #9
    I don't have to worry about it as I have a self draining deck (sharkcat 5.5) but if I did I would probably be fitting two of the cheaper priced units (johnson brand) they are $19.95 at BIAS. This way you have a large capacity and what are the chances on both going bust at the same time.

  10. #10
    Ausfish Platinum Member Luc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    I would go for the biggest practicable to ensure a quick empty.

    I run a 500 gals rule with both an automatic and manual swithch.

    Luc

  11. #11
    which ever one you go they dont give you much wire length so your join is usually in an open area. make sure when you do your make your join corrosion free as this is usually the cause of bilge faliure. we run them all day cleaning the tuna farms here in south oz and the connection is actually under water all day. we solder the join then slide the heat shrink over the join, then squeeze silicon inside the heat shrink till it is chockas. heat her up and the excess silicone comes out the ends leaving you with a completely corrosion free and water proof 12 volt join. great for any long term join in a bilge area that is especially wet open to the sea air like deck lights.

  12. #12
    Go the Rule.

    Johnsons are crap. Had 4 fail in under 12 months. Replaced them with Rules and still going strong after 3 years.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by snapstick View Post
    which ever one you go they dont give you much wire length so your join is usually in an open area. make sure when you do your make your join corrosion free as this is usually the cause of bilge faliure. we run them all day cleaning the tuna farms here in south oz and the connection is actually under water all day. we solder the join then slide the heat shrink over the join, then squeeze silicon inside the heat shrink till it is chockas. heat her up and the excess silicone comes out the ends leaving you with a completely corrosion free and water proof 12 volt join. great for any long term join in a bilge area that is especially wet open to the sea air like deck lights.

    there is a connector on the market that has heatshrink and gel preped already just crimp and heat and its sealed , its made by cabac and you can get them from a data supplier

    http://www.cabac.com.au/

    search for this product number wps1.25
    Last edited by marco; 26-01-2007 at 07:59 AM. Reason: link wrong

  14. #14
    After i fit the pump, if i make the hoses long enough, would it be possible to swap the hoses over so i can change the water in the live bait tank?
    Jewie

  15. #15
    Ausfish Addict Chimo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Probably not as you wil find the water will syphon into the boat. Also to fill a livebait tank you would want the pump mounted out side the boat on a plat just above the bottom of the hull. You bilger pump neens to be on the inside as low down and as far back as possible.

    Also be aware that when you fit your bilge pump make sure you fix the dishcharge end up of the pipe high, either over the top of the gunnel or if you drill just under the gunnel. If the end of the pipe is low or under the water outside the boat, the boat will fill as the water syphons in after you have pumped it out. I made this blue years ago on a tinny as I had too long a pipe tail hanging over the stern. The pump was under the floor and thought I'd sprung a leak as the damn boat kept filling up. It was a fresh water lake so at least the bilge got a good flush out!

    Cheers

    Chimo
    What could go wrong.......................

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •