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ol_bob
15-07-2004, 10:49 AM
hi,
i was wondering if anyone out there has any photos of the way they have decked out there troopie i have been doing a bit of work to mine (unfortunatley dont have digital cam) and am looking for further ideas.
Also i have a bit of a clunk in the front end when turnin at slow speed carparks, pulling in to driveways and tight turning i have spoken to many people with utes and troopies and they have been telling me its just standard with these models(mine is a 96) Most of yas probably know but i have found that running Castrol Syntrax in your gearbox and transfer gives better cold shifts and smoother wrm shifts and marked noise reduction its bout 30bucks a litre but. I am on my third cruiser now and i swear by it done many n/west trips and have not had one ounce of gear/trans trouble

Cheers ol bob

blaze
15-07-2004, 02:39 PM
hi
your clunking when turning will be the uni joint in the front axle, cheers
blaze

Big_Kev
15-07-2004, 02:59 PM
The clunk could also be the spring packs. You will find the second leaf that curls around the top leaf will slide from side to side when turning.
The strappings on the packs that prevent this will be loose as well as the u/bolts.
It is not detremental but can be repaired by a spring works by resetting and having the packs overhauled.
I have a 75 series and it is doing it as well, I just need to find the time to pull the packs and take them to get them done.
I will get the springs set with a two inch lift at the same time and fit greasable shackles, better bushes and pads to make it ride a bit better.
With the trans I run castrol TFC450 which is a specialised power shift transmission oil, having additives to help clutches grip. The shift is also heaps better when the boxes have done their fair share of K's.
It is a 50w oil that has almost the same viscosity at working temperature as the 90w but helps to lubricate when cold helping the syncros do the job. In particular the second gear in the HF55 toyota box that is synonamyss for being a shit when cold. The 80 series cruiser box also does the same.
Syntrax is great but for the price I get scared. I go for the TFC to do the job.
Hope this helps some. Kev. #:P

ol_bob
16-07-2004, 08:12 AM
reel hard, cheers cob im going up the shed now to have a look

bruce4x4
16-07-2004, 01:18 PM
Shit Kev, Are u a toyota mechanic, I just take mine to the garage ;D

xxxxhornet
18-07-2004, 03:03 PM
Its not rocket science - pays to know yoyr forbie underneath or could cost you big $$$. Could save you big $$$ too when you can do most things yourself.

ol_bob
21-07-2004, 03:53 PM
kev,
when ya say clutches grip better i gather you have a auto,
bob

Big_Kev
22-07-2004, 03:13 PM
No Bob my Toyota is a five speed manual.
TFC 450 50W is a specialized POWER SHIFT transmission oil. (for heavy heavy application ie; mining and earthmoving type equipment)
It will be to heavy a grade for use in automtive auto shift transmissions as used in motor vehicles, oil grade for this application will be 5W.
Cheers Kev. :)

ol_bob
25-07-2004, 04:06 PM
Kev,
do you know of a "Shell" equivelent as i work on a mine site (shift work hence the spasmodical replies). dont know any other handy tricks by chance do ya mate.

Bob

Big_Kev
26-07-2004, 04:25 AM
Donax TC 50 , SAE 50 oil meeting API CD or API GL1,2 or 3.
Cheers Bob.
Don't go stealing the stuff from work now Bob LOL.

shano
26-07-2004, 04:46 AM
yeah i have the same clunking noise in my front end of my ute!!! thing is it aint a 4x4 its just a nissan 720 non 4x4! any ideas?

blaze
26-07-2004, 05:35 AM
shockie rubbers?

ol_bob
26-07-2004, 07:56 AM
nh i dont like to refer to it as stealing more like stocktake or supplamenting my income. Probably doing the enviroment a favour anyway thats 2lts less that will be sprayed on the haul road or buried in a big hole.. i am convinced the big australian really dont give a knob of goat shit about our enviroment

Big_Kev
26-07-2004, 10:09 AM
I thought it was called Mitre 11.
And put it this way Bob at least it is going back to where it came from.

ol_bob
28-07-2004, 01:20 PM
hey kev,
i found some gunna give it a try next days off any good for diffs and transfer case. got any othe secrets for engine oil? im running rimula x at the moment only cause mitre11 have got it .

bob

Big_Kev
28-07-2004, 04:11 PM
50W Won't hurt the transfer case, I run the 50w in mine.
Check the levels the HF55 box has a habit of transfering oil from case to case and can be rectified with a tube kit from Repco.
I prefer to use a 90w limited slip diff oil for the diffs.
And if Mitre 11 has the Rimula X that is the best stuff to use as long as the price is OK.
If your truck is about 10 years old I can recomend to pull off the bonnet, pull off the wiper arms and unscrew the grill from the front below the windscreen panel covering the wiper activation arm.
Leaves and dirt will be built up on the passenger side and it pays to remove this to prevent rusting.
If you are handy you can pull apart the wiper arm pivots while you are in there. Grease them to stop them going tight and making the wipers slow. the ball at the wiper motor will just pop off with a screw driver.
Cheers Kev.

ol_bob
28-07-2004, 05:21 PM
kev,
if ya havent gathered yet i live in WA and ya wouldnt believe my mrs works at repco.... i have heard of this "pressure build up" that blows the seals out. I will get her on to it. Also as well as mitre 11 my brother in law works for CAT ive got it sewn up hey ,Im gathering either your a mechanic or have something to do with the assoc trades or are enthuisaist. Myself i am a mech fitter i have the know how long as i am pointed in the right direction by this i mean you tell me wats wrong with it and i,ll fix it with my eyes closed. Kev do you know anything about tapping out the front hub to put in a grease point for the hub seals and do you know any tricks to clean out/prevent rust from forming along the rear window roof life on a pc. I will be getting on to the plenum to check for build up i bet there is shit there!!

Big_Kev
29-07-2004, 03:39 PM
Bob there is a plug in the front swivel hub with a square head.
This plug can be removed, and grease nozzle inserted to pump in the grease.
But if the seals are leaking it is best to do the the whole shebang.
It is common for the hubs to leak oil at the swivel ball and the fix is cheap to do your self but fiddly and will take all day.
REPCO will sell the swivel hub seal kit and it does not cost that much.It will come with bearings and the felt seals etc.
Good advice is not to overfill the front diff and don't leave the hubs locked in.
Do you live in Kal.
Cheers Kev.

ol_bob
04-08-2004, 11:56 AM
kev,
i sent reply but i cant see it here if cant see it neither can you...... the wonders of modern technology

Big_Kev
04-08-2004, 01:26 PM
Bob it must be lost in electron heaven.

ol_bob
07-08-2004, 07:11 AM
Kev,
there it is popped up now... i have changed oils in driveline gearbox seems a bit better already only done 20ks since but. I have got another question for ya i scored (legally) a set of 15" by 8"in rims will they fit on my 96model or do i have to run sixteens? as i have been told they changed calipers or something ...... also fitted the expansion/bypass tube you told me about it was to easy to install and hopefully saves a bit of grief later. One problem i have encountered is the knobhead who owned it before has rounded of the front diff drain plug tryed belting on a 23mm socket but still to no avail reckon he must of done it up with a shifter and a big bit of pipe some people should stick to what they do best Fcku all.... check level in it but seems ok going to grease front housings today.

blaze
07-08-2004, 09:39 AM
2 ways
give the bung a good hammering with a ball pein hammer, this does 2 things, incrase the size of the bung where the spanner goes on and flattens out the copper washer a couple of thou, quite often after this procedure you can undo with fingers.
weld a nut on the bung, WAIT till cool and undo
fit new bung and copper washer in both cases and they dont need to be done up overly tight
cheers
blaze

ol_bob
07-08-2004, 01:26 PM
# # # #cheers cob i,ll give it ago is there any chance of setting fire to the diff oil if i weld a nut to the plug while it is still in situ?
I have found out about 15in rims they do not fit 96 models... also i was wondering if anyone knows of a wiring diagram or somewhere on the net for the wiring up off duel batts using a hella 2765 switch with isolator?

blaze
07-08-2004, 03:01 PM
HI BOB
no it wont get hot enough to ignite the oil, dosnt take long to run a weld around the nut, if you are concerned, cool it with water
cheers
blaze

ol_bob
07-08-2004, 04:21 PM
blaze,
hope ya didnt get the nickname blaze from setting shit on fire...... just joking i will have to give it a crack..... no much about wiring up dual batts using hella switch 2765 i need to know were to put the charge wire from the alternator?

ol_bob
08-08-2004, 01:35 PM
All,
got my switch sorted ended up switching negatives piss easy a trained monkey could do it cheaper than Oppisite lock or ARB.........(not knockin there quality just there prices)

ol_bob
09-08-2004, 08:13 AM
does anyone know of an additive you can put in your plastic water tank to keep water fresh and free from algae... mine is made from pvc piping have been told it does and doesnt grow algae?

Bob

Big_Kev
09-08-2004, 02:24 PM
Chlorine LOL.
Other than that change it regular.

ol_bob
10-08-2004, 05:58 PM
the stuff for the pool hey?
hope the sun is shining over there it was here today we even cracked 22c bloody good day to good to be at work should of been fishin or chasing yabbies or something.....bring on spring/summer!!!!!