Busted Fly Line

[Jack_Lives_Here]

Managed to wrap my fly line around the prop on the weekend. I'd been watching a school of longtails for about 15 minutes and figured where they would come up next. Had a major brain fart and took off straight across my line and wrapped it around the prop. Busted about 8 inches off the tip of my rod and broke about 6 feet of fly line. :( :( Could have given myself a big upper cut.

QUESTION - Does this make the line useless now?? It is an Orvis clear intermediate sink. Please, please, please tell me I'm not up for fly line as well.

[Maxg]

How much of it was front taper, you probably don't need a front taper anyway. Max

[aussiebasser]

Sorry Jack, it sounds like it's buggered. I'll give ya 10 bucks for it. ;D Just so you don't have to throw it out.

[Steve_Ooi]

There’s a couple of things you might be able to do with it.

1) if it is just broken in one section cut a short piece of 50 lb Gudebrod braided mono, stuff each end of the fly line up it , whip finish and seal with aquaseal, I repaired SA stripers like this and they have held no problemo.

2) You may want to put a braided loop on the end and just make interchangeable tips for it.

3) If the whole head is stuffed keep the running line and make interchangeable heads for it, make a head out of LC13 or other old lines.

Cheers Poony

[Wesley_Pang]

Steve cover most of your options.

Props are to flylines, as clousers are to flyrods. Props are natural enemies of flylines.

I've lost a few flyline to props. You live and learn. I try to keep the flyline out of the water when I'm chasing those frustration longtails.

Another option is to use the flyline on a lighter flyrod. If it was a 9# its probably a 7# now.

Wes

[Jack_Lives_Here]

Thanks guys. Reckon I'll go with the braided loop option. The bit that wrapped the prop is pretty savaged and not worth reconnecting.

[Jack_Lives_Here]

The Pacific Composites folks have just informed me that they can do and just and end piece for my busted rod. :) :) Not as expensive mistake as I originally thought, but still kickin' myself. :-[

[Maxg]

Try and get a tip, I'm not in favour of repaired graphite rods. Busted longitudinal fibres are just that.
On fly lines, the one reason I went to shooting heads, and the cheapest heads I could find, was being reefed by nasties. Every time was a mess, and messes are expensive these days and those days. I know this will get a swarm of bees, but are you sure that off a boat chasing tuna a 120 buk line is that much better than a 30 buk one. I'd try a LC13 head, it's about 13 buks or so, which is cheep cheep.
People seem to think that lead cores are for deep fishing, but you can fish shallow, it depends on how soon you start pulling in line, Quich shallow late deep. Cheers have fun Max

[Jack_Lives_Here]

Yeh, it's a tip / third piece they can do. Wouldn't trust a repair myself.
I'm new / naive to the wand - never heard of an LC13 - is it a complete line or just a section that can be attached???

[sydfly]

Hey "Jack",by cuttin the rest of the "head" from the line you can then add a shooting head.The remaining fly line will probably make a good running line.I have done this with SA Stripers with good success.The LC13 is but one option from cortland.By adding this to your line it will provide the weighted front section you require.LC means lead core and these can be akward to cast if you are new to the wand.You can try other heads that are not leadcore like the cortland 444s.Cheers, Justin. ;D

[Jack_Lives_Here]

I've got it up and running again and it seems to cast just like before. ;D ;D I took it to my tackle shop and they attached a braided loop to the end and away I went. I'll keep the LC13 option there though.

I wanted a line that could sort of multi purpose from barra to flats goldens to tuna, and the Orvis clear was what was suggested at the time. ??? I still have the "L" plates but can generally get the fly to land where I want it to go.

Thanks for the input.