coating a rod after binding

[mangomick]

G'Day fellas
Whats the best or most suitable coating to put on a rod to protect the binding?
Cheers

[banshee]

If it's a new binding a couple of coats of thread filler,then a couple of coats of a two pack epoxy (Jack Erskine),you will need to be able to slowly rotate the rod for 24 hours if useing the Erskine product,for repairs or a quick finish you can get a prety good finish with 5 minute Z-epoxy.

P.S. you will still need to rotate with the Z epoxy.

[rick_k]

nuffin' improves a nice wrap of insulation tape.........

In the good old days, (o.k., I'm old), we used to use estapol over speed king filler. Worked pretty well, but yellowed white horribly and didn't have that funky smoooooth finish unless in the hands of an expert i.e. not me. On the 5 minute araldite front, a heat gun will help it flow a bit.

If you are talking emergency repairs, then c thread and nailpolish will do, as I have proved after a rod and rod tube did not survive an encounter with the baggage handlers.

If you want a nice job with epoxy, then you are going to need to rotate it until it sets, in a nice warm spot away from dust.

Or you could speak to the local tackle store to see if their rod builder will do the job for you after you do the binding. Just try to speak to the rod builder before you hand over your bound up pride and joy. Well, probably before then. Otherwise, for example, your lovely bright gold/yellow thread might come back dull and boring.

Rick k

[mangomick]

Thanks guys
Its an old rod that my misses was practicing a bit if tartan pattern binding on. Think I'll go with the 5 min Z epoxy.
Cheers
Mick

[alimo88]

There is a newish Araldite epoxy called "Crystal Clear" or somthing like that. Just a thought.

Alimo 88

[bearclaw]

Mick what's your location.

Myles

[mangomick]

Myles
I'm in Gladstone Qld. Why do you ask?

[bearclaw]

Mick, thought if you where northern suburbs Brisbane I could have helped you out that's all. Keep away from the araldite it will crack.

Myles

[Great_White]

bearclaw, I know Araldite is not the correct epoxy to use but I did a road a few years back and it's still going strong.

Have you had any bad experiences with it ??????

Peter :)

[roz]

Hi Pete,

I've used araldite also. It looked ok......for a while.

Maybe you got the mix exactly right to go the distance.

Worth a try if you don't want to go out and get one of the purpose made rod finishes.

IMO if you really like the binding and want it high lighted, use one of the rod epoxys.

Sorry for butting in on your answer Pete. :)

cheers r.

[bearclaw]

Peter,

I have had to repair several bad experiences that have occured when a rods owner has used the stuff, but your right it will get you out of a bind (pardon the pun) but Araldite is a 2 part epoxy glue and is quiet brittle, where epoxy finish is a 2 part epoxy casting resin in most cases.
It also yellows at an alarming rate making it no good for coating any form of thread art, will crack if flexed and if you ever want to rebuild the rod you will have a bugger of a time removing the Araldite from the blank.

Myles

[Great_White]

Thanks Roz, I didn't think you were butting in, it's good to hear about all peoples experiences. So thanks for the reply ;) ;) ;)

Thanks also to your reply Myles, I will take this on board. :) :) :)

I had just replaced some runners on a light action butterworth bream / whiting rod. Well to be honest it was a lovely 1 piece 10 foot 6 rod and lets just say it broke almost in half. That's another story in it's self but it involves me using heavy line and trying to free it from an under water immovable object. So I put a ferrel on and turned it into my new favorite 2 piece rod, after adding an extra runner to what it had and re spacing the others. All I need to do now is coat the bindings, so I will do it correctly under the expert advice from the above mentioned.

Thanks Again Peter ;)

[Noelm]

any tackle store will have some finishing material, it just depends on how good a job you did and how you want it to look later, way back in the "good old days" we always some two part stuff called "secret formula" I think it was imported by a company called I think Basser Millyard" or close to that, it was fantastic, but I know there is dozens of products out to do it.

[Matt_Campbell]

By far the best stuff is Jack Erskines epoxy. If you want a long lasting finish nothing beats it. Dont use anything else.

[White_Knight]

What you shoul do is have a talk to Stuart as he is on the ball as far as rod finish .... you could say he has given them all ago ...
White Knight 8-) ;) :D

[stuart]

White knight uses Flex coat, I use a secret formula developed by NASA, and Erskin’s is ancient. ;D

Stu

[White_Knight]

U R full of it Stuart

[stuart]

I can only dream of being as good as you mr white knight.

Stu

[White_Knight]

U know stu every one must think we hate each other .... only if they knew
As far as the type of finish .... I use a few different ones as there is different types of rods .and some I use as a base for others
I think U use Aftcoat stu don't U
Chai
White Knight

[PinHead]

bearclaw, I know Araldite is not the correct epoxy to use but I did a road a few years back and it's still going strong.

Have you had any bad experiences with it ??????

Peter :)

was that the Gateway Pete????

[wheezer]

to honest there are much better products out there than Erskine's...its not bad but main reason its so popular is that it is easily accessible..

[hussy]

have used the jack erskins , and find it to be crap. there are plenty of others that leave it for dead, ok for half baked job i suppose, but not for me. bob h

[sjp2]

but is it okay to coat the rod as well as the bindings or does it crack with the flexing

[Bearclaw]

sjp2,
You can get away with using two part finish a blank finish. Only problem is that it is not durable enough and will chip off the blank and if it is thick may crack depending on it's flexing agent. It is designed to coat the wrapping threads and protect them. It has a pretty weak bond to a smooth surface. However it does tint well with testors enamel model paints, only a drop or two needed, too much it won' set up. If you can locate it, Spar one part polyurathene works well as a rod finish.

[sjp2]

damn well its done already ,sure makes the rod look good -for a while anyway:(

[2DKnBJ]

I have built a couple of rods and repaired quite a few.My best results have come from using a 2 part epoxy.If you don't have a drying rack to keep the rod rotating during the drying you could use a hair dryer to heat the epoxy as you are applying it which will give you a nice thin coat.Give the rod a few coats and it will look as good as a professional job.

Cheers Dazza