View Full Version : How to prepare a new trailer
revs57
25-11-2005, 07:23 PM
G'day guys
I've taken delivery of a new RE200 Redco Sportsman for the Rip Tide (almost there!).
I've never had a new trailer before...are there any tricks...With our old trailer for the tinnie I was very mindful about maintenence and kept it coated with a squirt of inox after a good wash down with fresh water.
I've heard that coating springs/axels and submersion area with Lanoline or Lanox is a good thing, but others have warned me against it claiming it holds salty sand and will pit the galvanised coating...
I'd really value your feedback...what do you do to prepare a new trailer?
Thanks
Rhys
Chris_Riethmuller
25-11-2005, 07:40 PM
Rhys, I find a mixture of lanolyn and inox does a good job, because it is mixed it does not stick as much as lanolyn alone and only needs a spray every 3rd or 4th trip,you can tell when you hose the trailer, if it is still working the water doesn't settle anywhere.
rgds beefa
banshee
25-11-2005, 08:58 PM
If it's hot diped gal' I can't see the point in treating steel that has already been treated,a very thorough hoseing has mine looking like new after four years and it gets dumped up to the front of the gaurds, but I don't supose extra protection will hurt.
revs57
25-11-2005, 10:30 PM
Yeah Banshee,
That's kind of my line of my thinking...why treat a treated surface...but I've seen gal dipped trailers rust away too...is that just from negelect???
A friend always sprays his trailer with a Kero and diesel concoction...swears by it but it stinks like all get out...but he doesn't have any sign of rust either
I'm also wonding about the disc brakes...newer had to contend with them before...any clues
Cheers
Rhys
banshee
25-11-2005, 11:06 PM
G'day Rhys,I think the gal is enough untill the surface is compromised through scratching etc,I spend at least 10 minutes with the hose on the trailer with special attention to the inside of crossmembers and any steel on steel boltons like where the roller carriers join crossmembers,gaurds joining main frame,in between springs,calipers etc.As for the brakes I think yours will have gal calipers and stainless bolts,the hubs should also be galed and as long as you keep the brakes adjusted the disks will remain shiny.
revs57
26-11-2005, 05:07 AM
Thanks for the good advice Banshee...
Yep you're right gal discs and calipers...is there ever a need to hit them with a lubricant/water disperser inox/wd40??
cheers
Rhys
Chris_Riethmuller
26-11-2005, 06:56 AM
Rhys, I only do my trailer as an extra precaution, but I do Put extra attenttion to the axle and brake area, even though the discs are galvanised they are machined true after the process meaning that the coating is gone from the brakeing surface, a light spray of rust inhibitor will help out in this area and disapates within a few brake applications, also I dont leave the hand brake on as moisture sits in between the caliper and the disc and if sitting for a long time can cause rusting,but you cant go past a propper hose off.
rgds beefa
CHRIS_aka_GWH
26-11-2005, 07:37 AM
most rust in gal trailer occurs around the welds in pits that formed pockets, on members behind the wheels of the tow vehicle or trailer from stone damage & on the inside of cross members that are never flushed
there are holes where the cross members join the main frame of your trailer (initially for welding purposes I think) & a drain hole at the bottom
when you launch any submerged member fills with salt water
spray lots of AEROSOL inox into the top hole of these members & park the trailer in the sun on the road
flush these members from the top after sinking in the briny - do the inox thing once a year
so far as the whole salt sticky thing - the bottom of my beach loving landy is 28years old & straight steel. Salt & sand is permanently stuck to it but there is no rust - you don't get rust if air (oxygen) can't get to the metal.
Landies have an inbuilt rust minimisation system utilising onboard lubricants. Such a high level of integration in vehicle sysyems - the Japs are yet to copy ;D
Mad-One
26-11-2005, 07:49 AM
The Holes are there for when they Hot Dip them in the galv. If these holes weren't in there it could explode.
Phil
rodbender
26-11-2005, 08:21 AM
Gday Rhys i use a 50 50 mix of raw linseed oil & mineral turpentine to spray on my brake parts, springs,axles to keep the rust at bay. the linseed oil ucan get from bunnings.use a cheap spray bottle to apply. Another tip u may like to consider to wash the inside chassis rails.I purchased a roll of black garden hose the type u screw the little sprinklers into for the garden 2 end plugs & 2 quick fit hose connectors. Drilled holes along hose,then fit hose inside trailer channel leave enough hose sticking out end of trailer so u can connect ur normal hose to and flush out the inside the trailer. It;s added years to my my trailer.
;D chees Rodbender
revs57
26-11-2005, 07:40 PM
Thanks for the tips guys...really appreciate your input and taking the time to share your experiences
cheers
Rhys
Spaniard_King
26-11-2005, 09:19 PM
I recon they are using cheap gal to dip trailers in these days.
After only 3 years of fishing and TLC my trailer is showing signs of surface rust ::)
I thinks I will be spraying some sort of rust repellant concoxion on it soon to stem the tide.
How many years does one get from a trailer these days :'(
Garry
revs57
26-11-2005, 11:11 PM
good question Garry...
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