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inveratta
18-10-2021, 06:40 PM
Things seem a bit quiet ..now that Gazzas boat is on the water..and well done with that....

I wanted to post about my 1983 build Haines 565 ......the adventures of.......

An independent assessment for insurance found that the cabin floor was soft....all the floor aft of the cabin was renewed in 2015...and the stringers were checked and found to be sound back then...so last weekend I cut the the cabin floor out with a 10mm cut and the floor came out easily.....because it was not bonded to the stringers.....just held there by copper nails on installation of the 9mm floor..and above 3mm of csm...and I left a 25mm or so edge to glass back to.

Tapping the stringers and drilling into them down the copper nail holes....from an unexperienced view the stringers rang out when tapped and generally the 6 holes were ok although 1 was showing dampness...so not too fussed ....made a new floor with 12mm marine ply which takes the levels up to the existing 25mm edge and next week fill the gaps left in fitting the floor and glass over the lot...

I guess 1 boat like this is not a life time of experience..but a couple of thoughts.....I am putting a 5 inch hatch in the cabin floor so that I can ventilate the underfloor and at the stern end of the underfloor as originally an inboard...I have already opened up the floor under the fuel tank ....

Boat is stored under a roof..thinking that I will open the front hatch and the hatches to the keel space in the future..

I know theres a lot of thought about how poorly boats were built in those days..but nearly 40 years on ...its pretty good in this instance..and letting air flow through.....cant be bad..interested in your thoughts....

brett62
18-10-2021, 06:46 PM
In my view it's a good idea. . . Have placed inspection ports in many areas in my refurbished project . Just like you boat is in a closed in shed and everything is left open. It gets the chance to air/dry out, you have good access to inspect under the deck. It's a bit of work but since you are replacing the deck it should be a easy job. It was amazing just what crap I found and water laying in the hull unable to drain. I say go for it.

gazza2006au
18-10-2021, 08:22 PM
Problem with old hulls they were just slapped together with chop mat and structual cloth only in high stress areas all it takes is one puddle of water to soak threw a tiny 2mm hole which isquiet easy to miss than once the water is on the other side of the laminate it has no way of evaporating what im tryin to say is its easy to get water into a laminate andpretty much impossible to let it self dry out

When my boat got swamped twice my first transom was a good example for water going in and not coming out

Once u seal a hull slap the paint or gel/flow coat on to seal her up nice and tight and you'll have no worries at all, the resin or laminate is a first base waterproof coat to seal your work but the paint or gel/flow coat is another layer of protection like wearing two condoms at once..

Water that hasmade way into my hull has sat in the bilge for weeks its very hard to get it to self evaporate when the water is under cover (tarp) i found it only really dries out on those long hot summer days of 40c the other 9 months its hard to dry the hull out not unless mine kept flooding without me knowing

brett62
19-10-2021, 03:44 AM
Condensation is not your friend in sealed compartments. I know this from years of boat building. Aluminium hulls are the worst for this. When it comes to fibreglass and speaking of the 20 year hull I have at present some compartments had salt water and others were fresh water. The moulding and smell was truly from another world. I placed the inspection ports so you can easily reach in with a sponge and remove any water as well keep an
eye on condition under deck. Having air circulation has been a great thing.