Trailer coatings again- linseed oil?

[paullee]

Hi Guys,
I’ve been reading lots of posts about Tectyl etc over new gal boat trailers but the threads are all fairly old so I thought I would ask again due to just having purchased a new redco for my Haines. The old one rusted out mainly the shs cross members so I want to try get a coating on the inside of them. I was considering xtroll or tectyl 506 but I’m on the Tweed and can’t find anywhere local to buy a litre of it instead of just a spray can. I then came across a yt video of a guy who boiled linseed oil and used a degreaser gun and compressor to apply it. Thinking I might go this way as it’s easy to get locally and I’m keen to get out again before the snapper move back out wide. Someone on here said linseed oil and diesel mix I assume to maybe thin the oil out before spraying? So if I can get opinions on linseed oil and or whether anyone knows where I can buy tectyl or xtroll on the tweed that would be great. The mob in Brisbane that sells xtroll says delivery in 10 days for some reason and I dont want to wait that long.
Cheers…Paul

[Dignity]

Have you tried the paint shops in Tweed Heads, from memory there were several there, XTroll should be available through them, they may have an alternative.
The only issue with linseed oil and diesel is the oil slick you'll have around you until it hardens off which will be around the 10 days to 2 weeks.

[paullee]

Hi Dignity thanks for the reply. I tried yesterday arvo to ring them but was too late so I will see tomorrow. The yt video guy used boiled linseed oil and then boiled it again and applied it while it was warm. I read somewhere else the heat made it dry faster and “tougher”. What is the viscosity of xtroll and will it apply ok through a degreaser gun and compressor? The cross members have small gaps in the corners so not sure a normal spray gun will work.
Cheers,
Paul

[brett62]

I use a mix of 506 and fish oil and use a rust proofing gun which has a hose for getting inside RHS but you do need to have access to get the hose in and also a drain. The fish oil thins down the 506 and also allows it to spread and get into all the hard spots. Use the same when doing inside vehicle panels as the fish oil even penetrates the folded seems. You don't have seems in your trailer but the fish oil certainly helps getting a good coverage over everything. You do need to place a few containers at drain points for a day or so as it will drip. I did away with RHS cross members when I built my new trailer and have just the main frame made from RHS. To do the main rails I made up conduit with small holes in it and spray that way.

Repco sell everything you need. Depending on the decreasing gun you have you may be able to get the hose that will connect to it. If the holes aren't large enough but do have a drain in the cross member as most do, you can temporary cover the drain and fill the cross member and then let it drain into a bucket and then move onto the next frame. Slow going but any thing you can do to protect the inside is worth the effect. It won't last for every and I try and do my trailers once a year when I do the yearly bearing and trailer maintenance. I also drop the boat off so you can get to everything and do the maintenance much easier.

[Dignity]

Paullee I do thin it slightly as I do have a Shutz gun which is similar to a degreaser gun but has a longer flexible attachment but I lengthened it to reach even further, hence the slight thinning. The Xtroll lasted about 4 years and needs retouching mainly as nothing much really sticks to new galvanising but a quick touch up is all it takes. As Brett62 says, no boat on the trailer makes it a lot easier, also it is a messy job, I saved lots of cardboard which I lay down first, even then got some on the driveway and it is still there 6 years later. Don't forget roller brackets, some have hollow stems and a quick squirt from underneath is needed. On one trailer I did use fish oil but the smell lasted for way too long.

[ranmar850]

Stay away from SHS/RHS materials and your problems disappear, in that regard.

[stevej]

Or just go to a ally trailer and never worry about it again

get a rubber bung drill a hole through it for a hose and use a pressure pump to fill the whole void
have used fish oil. Sump oil tectly and all manner of products
all work to some degree

what really matters is how well the gal gets in there which is pot luck

[catshark]

was it linseed oil and shellac that together when drys in the crevices forms a resin like barrier , coats the insides around good id imagine

[Dignity]

Stay away from SHS/RHS materials and your problems disappear, in that regard.

Too late, me thinks as he has just purchased the trailer. When I bought mine the price difference made one blanch but certainly cheaper now, even ally is reasonable considering how much the raw material has increased.

[gazza2006au]

You can get Tectyl from bunnings its made by Valvolene u find it in the tools section in near the car engine oil in a black spray can just turn the can upside down release all the gas/pressure than make a hole and pour it out should be about 500mls per can

I used this Valvolene Tectyl on my trailer and after 12 months not one spec of rust

[gazza2006au]

This is what your looking for at bunnings

[scottar]

Or buy it 4 litre at a time for a fraction of the comparative cost


Valvoline Tectyl 506 Heavy Duty Rust & Corrosion Preventative 4L 5013.94 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/164154434903?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-159824-816807-4&mkcid=2&itemid=164154434903&targetid=4584619897046655&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=412352396&mkgroupid=1296324506082513&rlsatarget=pla-4584619897046655&abcId=9300543&merchantid=136820&msclkid=c2835edd25cc129b7ce43f9bd5b76c48)

[tunaticer]

Linseed is an excellent protector of steel IF the steel is 100% clean and just been heated near red hot.....it is absorbed into the metal.
Putting linseed onto cold metal will just seal the moisture inside the metal.
Blacksmiths have been using it for centuries on their hot works.

[BigE]

S2S PLID film
awsome stuff.
Utube for the vids
can get it in brisbane northside

[Dignity]

Linseed is an excellent protector of steel IF the steel is 100% clean and just been heated near red hot.....it is absorbed into the metal.
Putting linseed onto cold metal will just seal the moisture inside the metal.
Blacksmiths have been using it for centuries on their hot works.

And lanolin grease much the same, rub it in as soon as the metal is cut and will never rust.

[ranmar850]

[QUOTE=stevej;1689899]Or just go to a ally trailer and never worry about it again

get a rubber bung drill a hole through it for a hose and use a pressure pump to fill the whole void
have used fish oil. Sump oil tectly and all manner of products
all work to some degree

I've seen a bloke completely cap all his SHS section trailer, pump it full of sump oil, and declare it would last forever. Some years later, I kept a straight face when it rusted out from the inside, bottom of the section. He hadn't allowed for the fact that oil is lighter than water. Who'd a thunk that? So the small amount of saltwater that invevitably snuck in sat on the bottom, happily rusting through when it was sitting quietly. ::)

[The Mad Cat]

S2S PLID film
awsome stuff.
Utube for the vids
can get it in brisbane northside

Have you used this yourself BigE, it looks good gear.
I have just had a new trailer galvanized and it is not what you would call a good gal job, so thinking about future preventive maintenance.

TMC

[Dignity]

Have you used this yourself BigE, it looks good gear.
I have just had a new trailer galvanized and it is not what you would call a good gal job, so thinking about future preventive maintenance.

TMC
I've used Denso tape which is a similar product and once on water will not penetrate. Good on the oitside, I haven't worked out how to get it inside yet.

[stevej]

[QUOTE=stevej;1689899]Or just go to a ally trailer and never worry about it again

get a rubber bung drill a hole through it for a hose and use a pressure pump to fill the whole void
have used fish oil. Sump oil tectly and all manner of products
all work to some degree

I've seen a bloke completely cap all his SHS section trailer, pump it full of sump oil, and declare it would last forever. Some years later, I kept a straight face when it rusted out from the inside, bottom of the section. He hadn't allowed for the fact that oil is lighter than water. Who'd a thunk that? So the small amount of saltwater that invevitably snuck in sat on the bottom, happily rusting through when it was sitting quietly. ::)

just meant to use that method to get a good seal when putting what ever liquid in there to make sure it’s full
saves taping the gal and removing material if trying to add a screw-in metallic bung

dint think anything is foolproof with saltwater used boats
even my new ally trailer has all gal fittings with no seperation and gal biting into ally
maybe not rust but dissimilar metal issues going to occur at some point

[ranmar850]

Denso tape is very good within its prescribed uses, applied properly. We used it widely for all hydraulic fittings on the fishing boats, anything that needed salt water kept off. I have it wrapping up the drum winch motor on my boat, and the electric capstan drive motor, and their associated electrical connections. However, if water can find a way in, it then has the reverse effect, as it traps it inside. I've seen some horrible messes.
But the funniest one was with a mate, who hit on the "idea" of wrapping his boat trailer springs up to " stop them rusting" . He rreally didn't give any though to the fact that springs flex, and open up gaps, and the resultant water trapping inside had those springs worse off than leaving them bare. Parts of them were almost effectively immersed in salt water, full time. ::). I don't know if I would want to try to wrap an entire trailer.