Water Bladder

[tenzing]

I have had a 50l plastimo water bladder under the bunk seat for a few years and it leaks form the 38mm filler cap/thread.
I am considering replacing it and putting an out let ( 12mm) at both the inlet and outlet points then running hose from the inlet to a dedicated stainless filler on the gunwhale. I have one I got in a bargain bin a few years ago and it is like the one on the cruise craft where the hose for the deck wash is meant to clip in . There is a fairly stiff valve inside which should stop air going back down to the bladder as it drains.
My main gripe with the setup is climbing in to the cabin with a dripping hose to fill the bladder.
My only worry is not seeing how full the bladder is as it fills and blowing the thing up !
Do you think that if I hold the deckwash trigger open ( pump off) that it will push water through the pump when pressure gets high enough??
Cheers
Brendan

[Grand_Marlin]

The valve you have will work but you will have to keep an eye on the bladder.
Filling under pressure like that can and will split your tank.
Holding the trigger open on the pump hose won't work.
The pumps have a diaphragm in them which doesn't let water low past them easily ( this is how they create pressure)
Best bet is to hook the hose up, grab a beer, sit in the cabin and admire the wiring whilst the bladder fills!

Cheers

Pete

[Grand_Marlin]

The other option is to put in a 38mm filler cap in he deck and run 38mm hose to the bladder.
This is how most are set up.
That way when the bladder is full the water will run out of the filler cap with no pressure.
This option gives you more flexibility... you could grab a beer, sit in the drivers seat and admire the VHF!

Hope this is helpful...

Pete

[Chimo]

Hi Brendan

I use one of these bladders too and the way I successfully fill mine in the cabin is to use a stop valve on the end of the hose so the flow can be controlled (slowed, normal or off). My pump is set up to use fresh or sea water for the deck wash depending on mood and use.

I also fitted a similar stop valve to the inlet and this has to be opened before the hose is turned on. My bladder collapses as the water goes out via the pump and IMHO this is good as it keeps air out of the bladder and the pump too. I think bunnings garden section has all the taps and fittings you might need. Again IMHO much easier and less dangerous than filling with you not seeing and feeling the bladder to prevent it being split etc I agree with GM on this point.

Cheers
Chimo

PS stuff like this works http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_gardena-hose-connector-with-control-valve-12mm_2498.aspx?search=hose+control+valve&searchType=any&searchSubType=products

[mal555]

I bought a Turtle Pak 50litre water bladder a few years ago and it had a real 'plasticky' to the water which I couldn't tolerate.
When you use the garden hose to fill the tank in the cabin try kinking the hose 180 deg. up near the nossle outlet before shutting the nossle off. Shake off the excess water before going into the cabin and hold a small bucket or bowl under it just in case of drips. Control the water pressure from the hose kink to minimize the misty spray inside the boat.

[tenzing]

The other option is to put in a 38mm filler cap in he deck and run 38mm hose to the bladder.
This is how most are set up.
That way when the bladder is full the water will run out of the filler cap with no pressure.
This option gives you more flexibility... you could grab a beer, sit in the drivers seat and admire the VHF!

Hope this is helpful...

Pete
Hey Pete,
There seems to be a common theme running through your replies!
Dont worry, I have been drinking beer in the boat at night, AND I have been staring lovingly at the gorgeous wiring and talking to myself on the new vhf.
BTW successful tests on the grey radio last week. Must have guts in it after all
Notice I can post early too! ( trip to airport with youngest off to NZ)

[tenzing]

Nearly forgot to get back to topic,
The filling issue has a lot to do with the fact that the 38 mm cap as supplied does not tighten on the thread and so leaks like a sieve.
Pete, if I use a 38mm filler hose how do I get a watertight junction to the threaded inlet?
Chimo, the inline tap sounds like a good idea too. I would still use a half inch outlet fitting on the inlet and put a normal hose connection after the tap though. I guess you need to turn both inline taps off so as not to make a mess. Is this how you do it?
Pete , with a 38mm filler cap will the lid prevent air going in to the bladder after it is closed?

The seat compartment drains onto the carpet in the cabin entry, the drain there is under the carpet so I have opened that out, but the carpet is often damp from they leaking bladder.

My ideal scenario would be not to go into the cabin and hace to lift the seat with its rusty staples and remember to turn it over so as not to get more rust stains on the white vinyl.
Is there a way to set up a blow off valve so that I can do it all externally and not worry about an exploding bladder??

Cheers
Brendan

[mal555]

Are you sure the O ring in the cap isn't missing tensing?

[Chimo]

Brendan

Its a while since I did it but from memory I used one of the rubber funnel fittings that you were meant to use to divert waste water from the laundry when we were all madly saving water during that dry period (again from B ings ) and a hose clip to secure it to the large inlet hole; maybe 38mm, and the inlet stop valve is at the other end of the funnel. In order to deal with any leaks, real or imagined; the bladder sits in a plastic tray ex B...ings too and mines in front of the fuel tank in the guts of the boat, you probably have a similar location in the Victory (unless I'm confused and you no longer have or dont have a Victory)

The outlet is always on and connected, the inlet is on the top of the bladder and so with the stop valve open its possible to purge all air out of the bladder so it can be filled with 50 lt of water with no extra pressure from the air on the seams. If I fill it correctly I can disconnect the hose (after closing the hose stop valve , with no in boat wettness; and then open the stop valve at the end of the "funnel" and (lightly) press the top of the bladder to purge any air. I do have a towel handy in case I push too hard though, remember burping a bub?

Does that answer you questions OK?

Cheers
Chimo

[tenzing]

Yep the o ring is in place but I doubt that the cap was the original one as it just wont lock on the threads and it has the centre piece missing and an odd bit of clear plastic, clearly home made, that doesnt seal at all in the centre.

Chimo. I had a 50l stainless tank for water in that position, mid floor at the front, but years ago had it converted to second fuel tank to increase capacity to 230l. also is completely separate from main fuel and I fill at different time to minimize risk of all fuel being contaminated. So bladder is now under right cabin seat but pump and deckwash as per original.
I do find filling the second fuel tank is also a pia after sliding that heavy hatch open and under fishing carpet , having moved all the gear etc.

Cheers Brendan

PS sounds like a new lid would be a simple start, Sold separately??

[tenzing]

looking closely it looks as though an outlet cap has been used minus its "guts"
Would you still expect it to "grip" the threads?

[Grand_Marlin]

G'day Brendan,

I assume the Plastimo bladders have BSP threads (Turtle Pac do).
From here, screw an elbow BSP ~ hose tail in with thread tape.
Connect 38mm hose to this and then run to deck fitting.
As the deck fitting is higher than the tank it self purges the air out.
The deck fitting will stop air going in, they are o ring sealed. (same as deck filler for fuel but with water written on cap to avoid confusion)
I have set up several this way and they work well.

Cheers

Pete

[tenzing]

Many Thanks as usual Pete. I suspect this filler is in fact bigger than 38 But I am probably wrong.
Brendan
Yep inlet 38 , thread about 50.
Just wrapping tape around seems to have helped a lot. D'oh