chainsaw

[bungie]

I know you get what you pay for, but in saying that.

Has anybody had any experiences with the chainsaw Mitre10 have on special??

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee84/bungslea/mixed%20one%20offs/chainsaw.jpg

[tunaticer]

I don't know about that brand and model but my Homelite 245 has outlasted to Stihls and one McCullock chainsaws. Sometimes the cheaper brand will last quite well.

What brand motor powers the Mitre 10 model?

Jack.

[485hussar]

id steer clear. If I dont recognise the brand I wouldnt touch it. Unless of course its for a one off job but then again you could always hire one for under $100

[bungie]

Its just for chopping fire wood on camping runs.

Don’t know the motor, but the casing is identical to the Ryobi in shop ($300) switches, markings, ect just different colour. The Ryobi is a 38cc? unit with smaller chain and bar.

[Mr__Bean]

It isn't usually the quality of the saw, it is the ability of the person using it to look after it properly.

Preserving the sharpness of the chain is the biggest issue for most people.

DO NOT:
- cut dirty wood
- cut burnt wood
- cut wood sitting on the ground
- continue to cut when you feel the saw struggling

DO:
- understand how to tell the difference between a sharp chain and one that is loosing its edge
- sharpen with a chain file as soon as it looses its edge
- stop if you have hit ground/stone
- carry a spare chain to swap it over if you damage the one that is on there.

Most chain and saw damage is done when people try to continue cutting when the chain is blunt. This burns the chain and kills the saw.

- Darren

[BaitThrower]

It isn't usually the quality of the saw, it is the ability of the person using it to look after it properly.

Preserving the sharpness of the chain is the biggest issue for most people.

DO NOT:
- cut dirty wood
- cut burnt wood
- cut wood sitting on the ground
- continue to cut when you feel the saw struggling

DO:
- understand how to tell the difference between a sharp chain and one that is loosing its edge
- sharpen with a chain file as soon as it looses its edge
- stop if you have hit ground/stone
- carry a spare chain to swap it over if you damage the one that is on there.

Most chain and saw damage is done when people try to continue cutting when the chain is blunt. This burns the chain and kills the saw.

- Darren

Mate good post and I totally agree. I have owned and used many chainsaws. Currently I have a 10 yr old Homelite, 2 years old Chinese ebay 52cc saw and a big Stihl MS380 72cc saw. The chinese ebay job is 52cc and I have cut heaps of logs and trees with it no problem. It is actually the easiest of the three to start.

In fact the majority of people I see using chainsaws and power tools in general, it is no wonder their tools dont last more than a couple months. They push em too hard with blunt chains or blunt cutting tools and wonder why they dont last.

I reckon you will have no troublew with that saw if you look after it... That means you need to keep the chain sharp, know how a chainsaw works and how to cut properly, do not force the tool, ensure the drive sprocket area under the covers is cleaned out after EVERY use. Ensure the right fuel mix is used and good quality chain bar oil, and perhaps most importantly, dont rev the crap out of it as soon as you start it up (when cold). Amazes me how people pull a saw out of a box, loaded it up with gas, start it and rev the crap out of it at full throttle when not under load. No wonder nothing lasts for them.

[choppa]

yeh count me in with the above replies,,, and there was actually a post on this a short while back,,,,

i've owned my little saw 4 ages,,,, and it gets its fair share of work in and away from the house(s),,,,

maintained and serviced it has to be getting on in years,,, its a bugger to start only because you have to depress a trigger when cranking it on the handle,,,, i just shove the toe of my boot in there now and away it goes

as far as your choice is concerned,,,,, for the price (and depending on how much you'll mactually use it,,,) buy it,,,,,,,,,,,,,, s##t its only a tank of petrol::) ::)

choppa

[bondy99]

I also agree with that, I had an old one "ATOM" brand made in Australia, Sydney.

I paid $50.00 second hand, it was a heavy mother but no safety brake which is the standard these days. It cut lots of wood, ironbark also with no probs. It required chain sharpening, bit of lube and normal maintenace. 5 years ago took it to Small Engine service place called Southside Motors or something, went north for a while, I came back, company folded, and moved, I was told my chainsaw was buried under the concrete. A good lesson learned on that one. I should not have left it there for 3 weeks.

[bbayjohn]

Can you get a spare bar and chain for it? This way if the blade gets stuck in the middle of a cut you can unbolt it and attach the second blade to rescue the first blade.

[Roughasguts]

Bunnings have a GMC chain saw 12 inch! on the shelves at the moment for 99 bucks.

They also have the 750 wat generator back for 99 bucks as well, I can't fault the generator for running power tools, out door lights wouldn't use it for sensitive stuff though.

[bungie]

ended up buying a Stichl as they were on special