View Full Version : V17 Haines Reno
Doc and son
25-09-2007, 05:08 PM
G'day,
It's my first time on this site and I now have a sore back from being riveted to the stories.
My father bought a brand new Haines V17 runabout in 1968, and we have just dragged it out from a twenty-five year sleep under a mango tree.
The stringers have been cut out, the transom also needs replacing.
We would like to restore configuration in original shape, that is no pod, etc.
Also we do not want to paint the boat.
Our questions:
We would be attacking the transom first, once complete we will run new stringers to meet the new transom, is this logic OK?
My understanding is that we are best replacing the transom from the inside. What is the best method of doing this? Concern is that we will need to lift off top shell, with no stringers in floor is this OK?
Lastly, I can not write in this space without giving credit to those who have made it possible.
In particular, Ross and Bev I understand a site like this only works because of members input. So thank you for your effort and giving the whole human side to a fantastic story.Luke
PS Pictures attached hopefully....
Hamish73
25-09-2007, 05:25 PM
I know 2/3 of SFA about what you are doing, but this link should answer most of not all of your questions, good luck and keep mposting progress reports :)
http://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,152,00.html
blaze
25-09-2007, 05:36 PM
IMO- cut the deck in front of the outboard well to do the transom, others will say go in from the rear. I feel the inside way ends up neater for an amuture and stronger.
I would also use hollow glass stringers, they are easier to fit and better become an integreral part of the hull.
transom, stringers floor in that order
cheers
blaze
Ps
I have a couple of threads on rebuilds also, dont know if they still come up in a search though
gavsgonefishing
25-09-2007, 10:59 PM
Mate, I love restos like this.
Couple of silly q's before I can guide you. obviously you are competent with tools etc, otherwise you would not be attempting the project. Have you used glass before, or are you a novice, no probs with this, just the answers start at a different level.
gavsgonefishing
25-09-2007, 11:13 PM
If you feel competent enough, I would be seperating the motor well combing from the hull and cutting it at where the side combings join the motoring well. Before you do that I would be cutting a peice of wood so it can be screwd at the top of the hull across the transomto the other side. It doesnt mater where as this will hold the shape of the boat before you remove the motor well top combing.
Why go to this trouble?, this is a lot easier to put in a full floor and join the stringers up with the new transom. As well as glassing the new transom in properly.
Before you cut anything spent time and cut out either cardboard or ply transom - this willl end up as the template for a new transom.
Go with Blazes suggestion, fibreglass stringers and beams are easy to make and will never rot again.
I may have done this before a few times.
Where are you?
2DKnBJ
25-09-2007, 11:45 PM
Good luck with the rebuild .
I am pretty sure you will have all your questions answered and more.There have been some great threads on rebuilds over the years.
The Haines are like the Landrovers of the sea...They just keep goin'.
Cheers Dazza
ColacGirl
26-09-2007, 08:25 AM
IMO- cut the deck in front of the outboard well to do the transom, others will say go in from the rear. I feel the inside way ends up neater for an amuture and stronger.
Cutting the deck in front of the well is Ross' preferred method too.
Can anyone link to a project that shows pics of this being done?
I have a couple of threads on rebuilds also, dont know if they still come up in a search thoughDoing a search for - blaze rebuild - brings up 2 pages of rebuilds including the threads you started blaze. Unfortunately the pics are gone from the ones I looked at.
--
Bev
gavsgonefishing
26-09-2007, 08:35 AM
just did a search on my project, found the thread with no pics, I am pretty sure they will be in the puter, just ask which pics you want, from transom to making stringers, you name it
Noelm
26-09-2007, 08:58 AM
OK I say this every rime someone starts on a project of this, be very sure when all the floor and stuff is cut out that the hull is supported very well, because when you stick it all back together again, if it has a "twist" or something, thats how it will stay, I have seen two disasters that required complete rebuilds a second time for that reason, it is not really all that hard, but it will take 5 times as long as you think, and twice as much cost, and be a very messy job for the Home handyman, but certainly not beyond the average person, also remember that when the floor is out, it is a good time to think about storage and fuel tanks and stuff.
Noelm
26-09-2007, 09:03 AM
Even though it is a slightly bigger job, I reckon to remove the entire deck from the side joints, it is better and easier to put it all back together, and makes doing the reapirs a lot easier to get at, as well as being able to recoat the entire thing to get it all looking nice and new again when finished.
Doc and son
26-09-2007, 09:52 AM
I know 2/3 of SFA about what you are doing, but this link should answer most of not all of your questions, good luck and keep mposting progress reports :)
http://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,152,00.html
Good site this one, have printed the tutorial and will keep on hand at jobsite. Cheers.
Doc and son
26-09-2007, 10:08 AM
IMO- cut the deck in front of the outboard well to do the transom, others will say go in from the rear. I feel the inside way ends up neater for an amuture and stronger.
I would also use hollow glass stringers, they are easier to fit and better become an integreral part of the hull.
transom, stringers floor in that order
cheers
blaze
Ps
I have a couple of threads on rebuilds also, dont know if they still come up in a search though
Good to hear from you, Blaze. Not just a buff with tech tips, you can sniff out amateurs as well! We are certainly after a strong repair so the "from the inside" method looks like the one for us.
cheers
Luke
PS Might post a photo of deck at outboard well area to confirm cut line.
Doc and son
26-09-2007, 10:17 AM
Mate, I love restos like this.
Couple of silly q's before I can guide you. obviously you are competent with tools etc, otherwise you would not be attempting the project. Have you used glass before, or are you a novice, no probs with this, just the answers start at a different level.
I own quite an assortment of tools, (all that I need from info I have read). I am a self employed fitter and turner (heavy industry). Have not done fiberglassing before and am keen to learn.
cheers
Luke
PS Have commercial premises for all messy activities...
Doc and son
26-09-2007, 11:08 AM
If you feel competent enough, I would be seperating the motor well combing from the hull and cutting it at where the side combings join the motoring well. Before you do that I would be cutting a peice of wood so it can be screwd at the top of the hull across the transomto the other side. It doesnt mater where as this will hold the shape of the boat before you remove the motor well top combing.
Why go to this trouble?, this is a lot easier to put in a full floor and join the stringers up with the new transom. As well as glassing the new transom in properly.
Before you cut anything spent time and cut out either cardboard or ply transom - this willl end up as the template for a new transom.
Go with Blazes suggestion, fibreglass stringers and beams are easy to make and will never rot again.
I may have done this before a few times.
Where are you?
Quality help. Am excited about piccies especially of attaching the timber stay you mention also cut line at deck motor well and any info on constructing hollow glass stringers. Will certainly make profile template of transom before cutting.
cheers
Luke
ps we're in NQ
Doc and son
26-09-2007, 11:16 AM
Good luck with the rebuild .
I am pretty sure you will have all your questions answered and more.There have been some great threads on rebuilds over the years.
The Haines are like the Landrovers of the sea...They just keep goin'.
Cheers Dazza
Don't you mean Landcruisers of the sea? You're right about the help, am doing my level best just keeping up! Have only just found this site and will probably balls up my correspondence a bit. But, hey there's no pass or fail when you're having a go!
Cheers
Luke
jimbo59
26-09-2007, 03:38 PM
Gday doc and son,
i do this sort of thing for a living; but this is how i would attack it. Sit the hull on the floor and support it, remove the deck completly as most of it is stripped anyway.I would make the stringers,and floor out of glass.Glass in the stringers leaving a small gap for the plywood transom, the gap is so you can wedge the ply hard against the skin of the transom using the stringers.Next cut the floor in and dont for get to glass the stringers to the transom.Where the belly tank goes is the only place for ply(use 3/4 inch here) and i put a bog edge so no screws are used.Then just flow coat it and put the deck back on ,all done:D .Cheers...jim
Noelm
26-09-2007, 03:58 PM
yep, thats my thoughts as well deck right off, not a really difficult job, but will end up a much better finished product, especially if you are going to flowcoat under the deck as well so it looks like new.
Even though it is a slightly bigger job, I reckon to remove the entire deck from the side joints, it is better and easier to put it all back together, and makes doing the reapirs a lot easier to get at, as well as being able to recoat the entire thing to get it all looking nice and new again when finished.
Removing the entire deck is creating a shit load more work.
cutting the back part of the deck off infront of the outboard well is the best way.
you only have 2 cuts and a gunwhale rubber to fix up.
Doc and son
27-09-2007, 07:38 AM
tah, bev. Pictures are a big help to us. Anybody?
Doc and son
27-09-2007, 07:50 AM
Cutting the deck in front of the well is Ross' preferred method too.
Can anyone link to a project that shows pics of this being done?
Doing a search for - blaze rebuild - brings up 2 pages of rebuilds including the threads you started blaze. Unfortunately the pics are gone from the ones I looked at.
--
Bev
Tah bev, pictures are very helpful. Anybody?
Doc and son
27-09-2007, 07:57 AM
just did a search on my project, found the thread with no pics, I am pretty sure they will be in the puter, just ask which pics you want, from transom to making stringers, you name it
Thanks Gavsgonefishing,
Any shots of approximate cut line in front of motor well, hollow stringer construction and transom replacement from inside would be fantastic!
Cheers
Luke
Crestcutter
27-09-2007, 07:59 AM
Good luck too you mate, i'm in the middle of doing a reno on a 213c haines myself. A lot of hard work but will be worth it in the end.
Doc and son
27-09-2007, 08:03 AM
Good advice, the hull will be well supported. We will only do this job once.
Doc and son
27-09-2007, 08:14 AM
Gday doc and son,
i do this sort of thing for a living; but this is how i would attack it. Sit the hull on the floor and support it, remove the deck completly as most of it is stripped anyway.I would make the stringers,and floor out of glass.Glass in the stringers leaving a small gap for the plywood transom, the gap is so you can wedge the ply hard against the skin of the transom using the stringers.Next cut the floor in and dont for get to glass the stringers to the transom.Where the belly tank goes is the only place for ply(use 3/4 inch here) and i put a bog edge so no screws are used.Then just flow coat it and put the deck back on ,all done:D .Cheers...jim
Wow, it's easy after all! Being a runabout configuration access for repair work is not a major, except under motor well of course. Strength is vital though. Thanks for your help with sequencing and the transom tips. Much appreciated.
cheers
Luke
Doc and son
27-09-2007, 08:20 AM
Good luck too you mate, i'm in the middle of doing a reno on a 213c haines myself. A lot of hard work but will be worth it in the end.
Yep. Our real work hasn't started yet. I'm pretty big on being prepared, so information first, step it out in a plan, then tools will be a-flailing. Appreciate the well-wishes, all the best for your HH.
Cheers
Luke
Doc and son
27-09-2007, 08:28 AM
yep, thats my thoughts as well deck right off, not a really difficult job, but will end up a much better finished product, especially if you are going to flowcoat under the deck as well so it looks like new.
Thanks, Noelm. We have not decided yet, though it looks like only removing well from deck will suit us best. We will flow coat only repaired work. We are not fussed on prettying/painting the hull too much as it does not suit the fishing we do.
Strength is what were after. Also worth mentioning, we want to keep this boat for as long as she will go for us.8-)
Doc and son
27-09-2007, 08:58 AM
Egads! there's a hole in our boat...I am not into blaming anyone cos that would be childish and disloyal.... but it wasn't me.
RAGINGBULL
27-09-2007, 01:06 PM
whiile we are taking Haines V17
MY BOAT HAS BEEN RETRO FITTED
There is a tank that is in the middle length ways, however they have glassed up the front section after the tank and raised the floor up to point where it reaches the bulkead where the steering is.
What is underneath that section because i am sure it is not standard and do not want to cut without knowing??
Any-one got some PICS of the interior ????
Thanks and Cheers
Mark
ColacGirl
27-09-2007, 11:07 PM
Luke,
Have you read the thread named Transom Replacement Project
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/showthread.php?t=112862
--
Bev
P.S Play-Pen will be at the Pin this weekend
gavsgonefishing
28-09-2007, 07:58 AM
Got more coming, I took the top half off up to the cockpit as I was lengthening the boat. You can do it any way from cutting behind the engine well thorugh to knocking the whole top off, just make sure you have sat down and thoought about it until you have it very clear how you are going to approach a project like this.
I only needed one support as the hull was pretty rigid. Cut as many supports as you think necessary.and screw them in to the top of the hull.
Think now where and what size fuel tanks etc. This will make the overall plan a lot easier to put together. Note I didnt put wood all the way down to the bottom, its so the bungs are in glass,not wood (no rot later on
gavsgonefishing
28-09-2007, 08:04 AM
couple more of the transom being glassed, will gix you the specs later. Got a few of the glass stringers etc, wehich I will post later.
Just ask.
Oh I dont do this professionally as you probably see, so my advice is based purely on experience, I am happy to be questioned and corrected if need be
Doc and son
28-09-2007, 09:36 AM
whiile we are taking Haines V17
MY BOAT HAS BEEN RETRO FITTED
There is a tank that is in the middle length ways, however they have glassed up the front section after the tank and raised the floor up to point where it reaches the bulkead where the steering is.
What is underneath that section because i am sure it is not standard and do not want to cut without knowing??
Any-one got some PICS of the interior ????
Thanks and Cheers
Mark
I can only advise on the floor frame in our '68 V17. Foreward of main cockpit floor which terminates at bulkhead at drivers feet position only keel and adjacent stringers (left and right of keel) continue for further 2-3 feet where they taper off to meet rising nose profile. There is an additional bulkhead which aside from strengthening this section rose 4-6 inches proud on a forward sloping angle to house anchor rope, etc. This forward most floor section is sunken approx 4 inches from main cockpit floor. Hope picture helps.
cheers
Luke
Doc and son
28-09-2007, 09:47 AM
couple more of the transom being glassed, will gix you the specs later. Got a few of the glass stringers etc, wehich I will post later.
Just ask.
Oh I dont do this professionally as you probably see, so my advice is based purely on experience, I am happy to be questioned and corrected if need be
Pictures are my friend, cheers.
Wondering if you fashioned a pod for your engine or did you cut into your new transom? Also would love to see finishing off on the outside where hull meets new transom. Thank you for your time, appreciate it.
cheers
Luke
Doc and son
28-09-2007, 10:34 AM
Luke,
Have you read the thread named Transom Replacement Project
http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/showthread.php?t=112862
--
Bev
P.S Play-Pen will be at the Pin this weekend
Have just found it, tah. Rev it up this weekend and don't let anybody "clack-clack" the anchor chain over the side of the Pen!
Luke
gavsgonefishing
28-09-2007, 05:53 PM
OK Luke, had a look thru the archives again and found these pics, hope they help
gavsgonefishing
28-09-2007, 06:04 PM
heres a couple more. one from the inside
Doc and son
02-10-2007, 07:40 AM
heres a couple more. one from the inside
Thanks agan, gav. We have enough info thanks to all you good people out there to plan our repairs. I will update again once work has moved along.
Thank you everybody.
Luke8-)
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