DIY Downrigger?

[gleeeza]

Hi team

I am wondering if any one has gone about setting up their own downrigger. I have gone out and picked up a bomb and clip after using a mates very basic rig, I mean measure out depth of venetian blind cord and tie her off basic, worked though!! A bit on the tricky side when it came to doing it all on you own. Pretty handy myself I am a fitter by trade so I don't mind elaborate ideas if any body has had a go themselves.

Then again, is a basic off the shelf set up good enough, is it worth the trouble?

I was wondering how deep you can use these things, I am looking at 1.2mm SS wire to set up with and was wondering what length I need to buy.

Thanks Glenn

[Fishin_Dan]

You could just sew some coloured thread around the cord every metre or so... (Maybe thick red band for every metre, and thin black band for half metre).

Thats actually an interesting idea though... Had never thought about that. Would be a really neat way to do one up for a kayak!

[charleville]

When I looked at making a downrigger, I looked at doing a proper job and then costed it out and decided to look at importing one instead - which I did.

The problem with spending any serious money on making one is that it probably won't have the features that you can get on a manufactured product, especially the safety features and when you are done with it, no one will buy it from you anyway so whatever you spend is dead cash.

By contrast, import one from Cabelas in the USA and it will cost you about 40% of what the things are to buy in Australia, the quality of product is terrific and much better than what you will make yourself, it is resaleable so you have not done all your dough on the exercise, and when I did my sums, the cost was not much more than what I was going to spend making a really good one.

I would not buy one locally though - the mark-up in Australia is obscene. I paid about $190 for a downrigger with bomb landed to my door - the same product sells for $499 in Australia without bomb. I kid you not!

[gleeeza]

Thanks Charlie

I was not sold one way or the other but now that you put it that way I can see your reasoning. Have you got a link or more details about what model you have and where to have a look at them?

The gear I have won't go to waste I can still use it to run a second shallow rig when I am fishing 2 out. Thanks

Glenn

[jez and suze]

i took charlies advice a year ago as i was going to build one and had writtern up a post similar to yours...........
the one i got was a scotty 5010 or 1050? i think they are $130 us so all up with postage it cost me about $200 au wich included an 8lb ball......where as here that setup would cost $600.....i got mine from cabelas (just google them) also basspro are the same price,just check their postage costs as im not sure of them.......jez

[jez and suze]

ps......bcf sell the exact one without the ball for about $500 so go and have a look at them.....but dont buy one there! 5010 scotty or maby its called 1050, you will work it out.

[jez and suze]

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?id=0002688010620a&navCount=1&podId=0002688&parentId=cat20985&masterpathid=&navAction=jump&cmCat=MainCatcat20166-cat20985&catalogCode=IH&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat20985

[charleville]

As per Jez's link above to Cabelas, their current price is USD$134.99. They charge another 20% for packing and postage to Australia which brings it to USD$162.

At the current exchange rate, they will bill your credit card $190.76 in Australian dollars. Your credit card institution will add another 50 cents or so because it is an international transaction.

So for about $191, you will get the same product that is still selling for $499 in BCF plus you would have to buy the lead bomb if you bought it from BCF.


Just to prove the point once more with readily available evidence, here is the price (without weight and release clip!!!) from a Aussie online retailer ...


http://myskitch.com/charleville/bluewater-20070630-235603.png



This an very simple way to get a damn fine downrigger!

[Lovey80]

Thanks Charlie thats a great bit of info. I would have paid the 500 as i thought that was the going rate. This is one of the reasons we all love Ausfish.

Cheers Chris

[charleville]

Thanks Charlie thats a great bit of info. I would have paid the 500 as i thought that was the going rate. This is one of the reasons we all love Ausfish.


No probs, Chris. You will see me tell this story many times in these pages as the question arises every three months or so.

I rush to tell the story every time because I think that the mark-up for the Aussie consumer on these products is obscene. This is especially so as when you buy the product from Cabelas, you are still buying it retail so they must obviously be making a reasonable profit margin on the transaction. The Aussie supply chain for these does not add any extra value on this North American manufactured product (other than GST) than the American retailer so why should we pay something like 300% more to buy the same product?!!!

You do have to wait a few weeks for delivery via surface mail but the wait is worthwhile. Cabela package the goods very well and include information about warranties and how to return the product if something is not right.

I have been very happy with mine, BTW. It certainly seems to be robust enough. Also, I don't think that I would have been able to emulate the brake/clutch nearly as well on a home-made one. That is important as that is a safety consideration - you don't want the downrigger catching on something when you are trolling and dragging the rear of the boat under water

[Feral]

You can also get these contraptions you tow that plane down deep (variable depth by mount point) that work well also.

I have to say, for $500 you could by an awful lot of Halco Crazy deep lures!

[gleeeza]

Thanks Charlie and others, I followed up on your info and they are indeed absurdly cheaper from this supplier. They are saying I can only have it sent airmail due to anew size consideration? don't know what that is about but I get it a whole lot quicker for another 20%. Haven,t committed yet I want ed to hear if any others have struck this first.

Cheers Glenn

[charleville]

Gleeeza;

There are other USA retailers who were actually a bit cheaper when I bought mine but I went with Cabelas as it was a first time thing to me, buying from overseas, and Cabelas had a good reputation.

It might be worthwhile Googling for other online fishing retailers to see what their total cost to you would be.

[Steve Jassid]

Thanks Gleeza... for asking the question... looking for the same info myself

Thanks Charlville ... and Jez and Suz ..... intend on following your advice .. no doubt have the skills to DIY ....... but who can match the import price and features................. Googled here and googled there.. looks like Cabela wins.

Charlie... when did you purchase yours... does the price qouted in forum stand at this date..................... thanks

[charleville]

Charlie... when did you purchase yours... does the price qouted in forum stand at this date..................... thanks

I purchased mine two or three years ago BUT the prices that I quoted here are what I obtained from Cabellas' site this week when I wrote the post and I assumed that their post and pack was still 20% but according to Gleeexa, that may have changed on something as weighty as this product - which does not make sense to me but I shall leave you guys to explore that issue.

The exchange rates are easily available online at sites such as http://www.xe.com/ucc/

So the prices that I quoted and calculated should be current now. In fact I paid a little less in USD$ for mine but the exchange rate is better now than then so the overall price in Aussie $ is still the same.

What gets me is that the retail price in Australia was $499 when I bought mine and it is still the same in the tackle shops now. I just cannot believe the mark-up on this stuff for no value-add to the product other than distribution in Australia.

[gleeeza]

Hi guys

It wasn't the weight that was going to influence the shipping,strangely it was the overall length that excluded it from the surface option. Funny though I thought it would be the other way around. I talked to their service department through their online support so I know it is current info. I believe it worked out to be $190US overall with the air mail.

Glenn

[gleeeza]

I have just priced the 1050 downrigger out and it works out to be $188.99US which at the moment works out to be $220.36AUS. Considering the local prices I don't see this as being too bad at all.

Given that yours is 2+ years old Charlie I reckon it's not such a big hit at the end of the day!!! and it is here in 5 or 6 days apparently. Thanks again.

Glenn

[charleville]

It wasn't the weight that was going to influence the shipping,

Yeah - I found that kinda interesting when I bought mine way back. I was tempted to tell them that I would accept it without the weight to make the delivery cheaper but since their delivery charges are just based on the price of the product, I was delighted to take the product as offered, including the weight.




I have just priced the 1050 downrigger out and it works out to be $188.99US which at the moment works out to be $220.36AUS. Considering the local prices I don't see this as being too bad at all.

Given that yours is 2+ years old Charlie I reckon it's not such a big hit at the end of the day!!! and it is here in 5 or 6 days apparently. Thanks again.


I am delighted to have been of some help, Glenn. What a turnaround, eh. There you were, going to frig around trying to make one and now you are buying a new one. Hehehe! Good decision, I reckon. :)

That airmailed price is terrific compared with the price at a tackle shop here in Aus.:) You are benefiting from the current relative strength of the Aussie $ compared with what it was when I imported mine.

The 1050 is a good product. The self-attached rod holder is OK and I have used the one on mine but I would not put an expensive rod and reel in it simply because it makes me nervous to see an expensive rod sitting in a rod holder sitting over the water. So mount the mounting plate in a spot where you can use your boat's existing rod holders if you can. The mounting plate that you slide the downrigger into and lock with a little slider button thing works very well.

Everyone will tell you that using a down-rigger is a bit fiddly and I will do the same but they are worth the effort. They have a line counter on them but obviously with strong currents, the bomb will be swept back a bit making the actual depth less than what the counter will show so they are best used by seeing where they are with your sounder. In places like Kalinga Bank, Nugget says that he just drops his bomb to the bottom and lets it sit there with the release clip affixed on the wire itself at the depth that he wants.

After you have had this one for a while you will see the merit in the electric ones but they cost a lot more $.

Anyway, well done. I am glad to have been of help.

[gleeeza]

Today is the day!!

Ordered it late last week and it turned up this morning, I couldn't believe it. Now I have to figure out the best place for it. Did you use a backing plate and if so how much oversize was it. Sobering to read that with the length of the boom and 150lbs wire you are pulling up to 1100lbs force on your side deck before she collapses.

I will have a good look around and ask as many questions as possible before I commit to a spot. At the moment I am looking at the transom as far back as I can, is it best to face it out over the side or out over the stern of the boat and can the boat rod holder be on the side,front or back. The mounting instructions are a bit vague for my liking.

Thanks again for your help I will let you know how it works out.

Glenn

[jez and suze]

mine is on an angle 45ish off the back right side....i removed the rod holder from the corner and the rigger sits over the hole....i cut a bit of icecream lid to fit under it so that when you have the rigger off there isnt a hole left open.

[jez and suze]

its actually more than a 45 angle now i look at it.......trying to put up pics

[charleville]

Mine is in a similar position to Jez's but sits at right angles to the side of the boat. I will take some pix in daylight tomorrow to post here to show you. You need to position it so it is not too much of a reach to grab the lead weight when you want to move on and the boat is bouncing around a bit. A light hook arrangement - eg a long wire or boat hook will help that. Of course they sell a little retrieval gizmo as well but their accessories are a bit pricey for what they are.

Underneath the aluminium side deck on my boat, I used a bit of scrap wood as a backing plate. Cannot remember the dimensions but I would have just used the biggest bit of scrap material that I could fit under there I think. Will add pix tomorrow.

Was everything as we "promised" you? - ie packing, convenience, instructions about returns etc?

Likewise, now that you have it, do you agree that it is better to buy one at that price than build it yourself? :)

[jez and suze]

i forgot that too.....i also have some timber reo under neath......i think it is needed in case of big ones or reefs

[charleville]

I will take some pix in daylight tomorrow to post here to show you.


These pix are a bit embarrassing as they show just how grubby my boat is at the moment. Ah well, I am obviously not breaking the council's rules on washing boats.

The top view of where the downrigger mounting plate is posiioned on my boat ...

http://myskitch.com/charleville/skitched-98-20070710-165054.jpg


The underside view showing the use of a bit of scrap timer to reinforce the side deck where the downrigger is screwed into....


http://myskitch.com/charleville/skitched-97-20070710-164859.jpg

[jez and suze]

bloody hell...look at your arrows!!!make me look like a tight ass!

[charleville]

bloody hell...look at your arrows!!!make me look like a tight ass!



Hehehe! It is just the (free) software that I use. At this stage it is only available for Apple Macs in a Beta trial.... I am happy to refer you to get a copy if you have a Mac....

http://plasq.com/skitch

In any case, you might like to watch the explanatory video at the bottom of that webpage. The voice and indeed the video is by one of my sons.

I have been using this software for a couple of years as it went through its development.

[gleeeza]

You are not wrong about ditching the DIY concept, never looked like making one for anywhere that price, and yes all the return forms, instructions ,warranty and service were spot on.

It took less than a week to get it from from the payment date. Very wary of giving my card details on line so I opened an empty debit account from my mortgage( as many free accounts as I want no charges) and transfer the exact amount across, gives me a little peace of mind.

I had already got a hold of a 200mm square piece of 6mm ally to back it wit but given that the set screws are so generous I may as well use some timber as well, nothing like overkill......

A 45 or 90 degree setting is now my next decision,I have no immediate angled rod holder at that part of the side deck I have instead a vertical rod holder that I use for a removable bait board( I move it from side to side depending on the current or sun direction), these are positioned about amid ship. At the very corner at 45 to the center line of the boat is a half in deck and a half above rod holder which is supported by a hand rail that runs up from the transom and about 300mm along the side deck. I will have to either pack up my downrigger to get over the top of this rail, or mount it at least 400mm from the transom, or straight out the back as close to the side rail as possible( there is a pod involved). Decisions....

I think it is about time I figured out how to post photos. My first attempts were met with "Too Big Go away" I have photo shop in the cupboard somewhere do I need to shrink them down first with it or can my PC zip it for me??

Sorry guys, a big ask but if you don't ask you don't get.....

Cheers glenn

[charleville]

I think it is about time I figured out how to post photos.

Mate, I use the software for Apple Macs that I referrred to above. One click of the mouse stuff.

Cannot help personally in relation to PCs but there is info on this site at http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/showthread.php?t=54112

[jez and suze]

my family all have macs and they sure do have some great software! they are fantastic for making videos too......we just use "paint" to make ours smaller.
if you have that just open the pic you want go to the "image" bit at the top then go to the "stretch/skew" bit and make it smaller.......gee that makes me sound like a real computer wizz,such techniqual terminoligy!

[Steve Jassid]

To one and all of you who love to fish! or just like a great day out! and Gleeza if your still lookin! and a thinkin!............ Here's the latest news on purchasing a Scotty 1050C Depthmaster Down Rigger through Cabela's:

Ordered at 853pm on 12 July 2007 - Shipped 13 July 2007 - Landed at my front door in Wagga Wagga (Yes! Wagga Wagga) 1230pm 17 July 2007

Purchased $134.99 PLUS Shipping and Handling $54.00 = $188.99 USD
Bank Card Debit $217.70 plus $5.33 =
ALL UP $223.03 AUD WITH FREE 8 POUND BOMB

Now, where can I orders some good wheather and a day off?
Happy Huntin' Folks

[Steve Jassid]

Charlieville, Jez and Suz, Gleeza ......... Thanks for the great pics and handy hints... see my post ealier this evening... confronted with same decision.... that's right.... where do I put it? Mounting problem? Have one rod holder insitu........ also.

So it looks like I go at 45%......... my reason for this is twofold. 1. I can set up another rod to troll long and way back.. (by the way I am basically a trout hunter in the snowies) and 2. troll deep and short and following the sounder for depth and 3. And as you say ease of retrieve from side

[Steve Jassid]

Charlieville, Jez and Suz, Gleeza ......... Thanks for the great pics and handy hints... see my post ealier this evening... confronted with same decision.... that's right.... where do I put it? Mounting problem? Have one rod holder insitu........ also.

So it looks like I go at 45%......... my reason for this is twofold. 1. I can set up another rod to troll long and way back.. (by the way I am basically a trout hunter in the snowies) and 2. troll deep and short and following the sounder for bomb depth and 3. And as you say ease of retrieve from side is better than hanging over back of 4 metre tinne. ONE QUESTION DO YOU THINK THERE IS A DOWN SIDE TO HAVING RODS MOUNTED AT 45% AND WILL SOUNDER PICK UP TRACE ::)

[gleeeza]

Hi Steve

I got onto Mono from this site who lives near me and is a bit of a downrigging authority. I had issues with the configuration at the back of my boat, namely a hand rail that stopped me from getting the boom at 45 or 90 degrees. He used to run scotties as well and he still had the swivel bases for them and said I could work something out with him for 1(Higher than standard). I noticed a range of accessories and had I known I was going to run into trouble I would have got the lot sent at one time. All the dimensions are on the website for Capelas so do your homework because the mark up here is criminal, and the dollar is going from strength to strength at the moment.By the way he suggested to set it up at 90 saying you cant get them far enough from the motors and that SS wire sure does a good job on the props.

Cheers and good luck Gleeeza

[gleeeza]

Just going to have a go at posting some pictures of my transom where I want my downrigger to go.

file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Glenn/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpgfile:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Glenn/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg

[Steve Jassid]

Hey Gleeza, Agree with your with your comments at setting up rigger at 90 degree...... after close inspection I arrived at the same conclusion that SS wire would foul prop. My tinnie never had any gunnels when I brought it five years ago, so as week speak it is at the shop having custom job. (saving on downrigger was put into customising a few jobs on boat and trailor.. reversing flood lamp and LED blinkers!) with luck this should overcome any problems.

Always good to see another man's boat! will post pics when all is done. Thanks to all.

[Steve Jassid]

Hey Gleeza, Agree with your with your comments at setting up rigger at 90 degree...... after close inspection I arrived at the same conclusion that SS wire would foul prop. My tinnie never had any gunnels when I brought it five years ago, so as week speak it is at the shop having custom job. (saving on downrigger was put into customising a few jobs on boat and trailor.. reversing flood lamp and LED blinkers!) with luck this should overcome any problems.

Always good to see another man's boat! will post pics when all is done. Thanks to all.

[charleville]

To be honest, I struggle with the idea of setting the downrigger at 45 degrees to the side of the boat for these reasons:-

1. I cannot quite visualize what the benefit of doing that might be.

2. As stated elsewhere here, you do want to keep that stainless steel cable well away from your prop. Even at 90 degrees, you will keep reminding yourself to not turn too fast if you are trolling in figure-of-8 patterns

3. A 45 degree position would make retrieval of the lead bomb on to the boat a lot more tricky in rough conditions that if it were at right angles to either the side or back of the boat. Remember that you will need to retrieve the bomb every time that you need to clip your line to the release clip if you have the clip affixed to the bomb or down that way. Not saying that it is impossible and it would depend on your boat but on my boat it would be a nuisance. Jump in your boat before you install and see what it feels like to lean over the side or back to grab a heavy piece of lead and imagine a lumpy sea whilst you are doing that. Of course a boat hook makes that easier but is just another nuisance bit of stuff in your way at times so I tend to retrieve it by hand.


I suspect that the angle of the DR will have negligible effect on whether the sounder can see it. Mine is at right angles to the side of the boat and I have no problems in that regard. Mr Pythagoras' clever rule suggests to me that at 45 degrees, the lead bomb will be closer to the sounder transducer and so more easily seen anyway. The bomb shows up on the sounder as a thick horizontal line. It is very easy to set its depth relative to the sea bottom accordingly.


ONE QUESTION DO YOU THINK THERE IS A DOWN SIDE TO HAVING RODS MOUNTED AT 45% AND WILL SOUNDER PICK UP TRACE ::)

I cannot perceive any problem with having a fishing rod mounted at 45 degrees. As it is, if you utilise the built in rod holder on the DR, it is aligns with the DR so itf the DR is set at 90 degrees to the side of the boat then the line is reaching the release clip well off to the side anyway.

If you use the standard release clip that comes with the DR, you will be affixing that to an eyelet on the bomb - usually on the rear of the fin on the bomb. That means that a taut line under the pressure of the rod will exert a sideways pull on the fin and that has often made me wonder if that causes turbulence in the water flow behind the bomb. Anyway, that question is probably a bit academic in the greater scheme of things. :)

[charleville]

Just going to have a go at posting some pictures of my transom where I want my downrigger to go.

http://myskitch.com/charleville/p1090069_transom.jpg_400x300_pixels-20070719-051045.jpg


.

[gleeeza]

Yes Charlie I was looking at that but the other bonus is that the swivel mount allows me to swing the boom inboard when it is not in use and I imagine will allow me to swing it in to help pick up the bomb and stow it in the side pocket directly beneath. Haven't seen it yet so I can't say how it will play out. I will let you know.

Steve I will show you the rest when I get a decent photo, I can't believe it is nearly 2 years and not one decent photo of her. Red Dog on VHF in Ballina.

Cheers

[charleville]

the other bonus is that the swivel mount allows me to swing the boom inboard when it is not in use



That would be a big bonus. I have often thought about getting one myself for just that reason. In which case, you could pretty well leave the DR in its deck fitting almost permanently.

[gleeeza]

Just looked it up, $145aus at Mo tackle. I haven't confirmed a price with Mono yet I hope he hasn't got a catalogue LOL.

Cheers

[charleville]

That price is even more obscene than the locally priced $500 for the DR itself! :'(

[Fafnir]

I have been following this thread now for some time with interest, as a mate and I are shortly going to be given one of his fathers old boats. Don't know too much about it, other than it's 4.8m long, enclosed bow and fiberglass. Has a 70hp Johnson on the back, apparently his father was told it would not support the weight of a 4 stroke (brought is some years ago). I only mention all of this because I am interested in opinions about the suitability of the 1050 downrigger for a boat of this size/type.

If suitable I would look at getting it professionally installed, rather than stuffing around with it (ie stuffing it) myself. Any thoughts comments?

[Grey-Ghost]

Where do you get parts from around bris . I have one but do not no how to rig line to lead weight
Cheers chris

[thatp1g]

I dont want to sound flippant but the prices in here make me appreciate the set up we used to use for the buxton hole in the burrum river.

Besa block with a lump of rope attached and varying spring rated clothes pegs stolen from the clothesline.

Was cheap but ugly.

[charleville]

I have been following this thread now for some time with interest, as a mate and I are shortly going to be given one of his fathers old boats. Don't know too much about it, other than it's 4.8m long, enclosed bow and fiberglass. Has a 70hp Johnson on the back, apparently his father was told it would not support the weight of a 4 stroke (brought is some years ago). I only mention all of this because I am interested in opinions about the suitability of the 1050 downrigger for a boat of this size/type.

If suitable I would look at getting it professionally installed, rather than stuffing around with it (ie stuffing it) myself. Any thoughts comments?

No problems at all on such a boat. Mine is a 4.75m Quintrex and the DR suits it well.

Installation is as simple as drilling four holes and screwing on the base plate into which the DR slides and locks into place. Nothing complicated about it. I have used a bit of backing timber to ensure that the stress on the aluminium side deck was spread over a wide area but again, there are no alligatprs in doing this.

[charleville]

Where do you get parts from around bris . I have one but do not no how to rig line to lead weight
Cheers chris


Pretty well any tackle shop will sell the release clips and other accessories which can be a bit expensive. Some people use rubber bands instead of the release clips - works out much cheaper, of course.

There have been some good articles written in Bush & Beach Magazine by Mono and Webby on the use of downriggers.

Also, if you just Google downriggers you will find some good stuff written on USA websites.

[Fafnir]

No problems at all on such a boat. Mine is a 4.75m Quintrex and the DR suits it well.


Thanks for clearing that up for me. I suspected it would be ok, but was not sure what size DR would suit that sized boat.


Installation is as simple as drilling four holes and screwing on the base plate into which the DR slides and locks into place.

At this stage, without having seen the boat, just not sure what sort of access I will have to get some backing timber on the other side. I am assuming it should be fine. Just don't like the idea of all that weight being supported by four screw holes through fiberglass. But either way, seems worthwhile ordering one now so I have it when the boat arrives.

[Steve Jassid]

that1pg........................ understand your train of thought.... but some fisho's are over besa blocks.......... and 18lb/foot rail.. and telecom green and yellow rope! bet more out there have done a lot worse... lol

[Lovey80]

Hi guys. Just re reading the posts as im about to purchase one very soon. Below is a photo of the rear port side of my boat. Can you guys that have them give me any info on how i should mount mine. I was planning on mounting it on the rear port step as the gunwhale on mine is in use for a bait tank and cutting board on the Starboard side. If I mount it so the DR is stait out the back is there a real danger of the wire getting caught considering the step is low and rearward?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Cheers Chris

[charleville]

I was planning on mounting it on the rear port step as the gunwhale on mine is in use for a bait tank and cutting board on the Starboard side. If I mount it so the DR is stait out the back is there a real danger of the wire getting caught considering the step is low and rearward?

http://myskitch.com/charleville/lovely80.jpg___200___layer_2__rgb_8__-20070730-184523.jpg

Chris, as you can see I have done a photoshop mock-up picture of a DR in the position that I think you suggest. The DR is not quite the way it would look in real life as the one in the picture that I copied is pointing to the starboard side but ignoring that little inaccuracy and assuming that the DR points out the back, I could not recommend such a spot for the following reasons...

1. It would be very difficult to get the lead bomb in to clip on the release clip. That stretch that you would have to do would be extremely uncomfortable and indeed probably dangerous to you in rough weather. You would never do it again after the first trip, I reckon.

2. When you do have a fish on, you do need to be able to wind up the stainless steel wire whilst you are playing the fish, otherwise your fish will wrap the line around the stainless steel wire in a real mess and you will probably lose the fish. I would hate to be trying to do that when the DR is down over the back and you had to lean down to get at it.

3. One of the safety must-dos with a DR when trolling is to have a set of wire cutters handy in case the bomb hooks up on something on the ocean floor and drags the back of the boat under. Again, if the DR is under water at that stage because it is mounted on the step, that will be very difficult to do.

A sturdy bracket mounted above the step and level with the gunwhale might do the trick for you. It would be better pointing the DR over the side than the back though simply to keep it away from the prop, I suspect.

http://myskitch.com/charleville/lovely80-20070730-190552.jpg


Also, Scotty does have rail mounts and a list of mounting tips is availaible at http://www.queenscreek.com/downriggerbook4.html

I suspect that you will pay big gold for their mounting accessories, though. A locally made bracket may work out to be much cheaper.


Someone else may have a better idea, maybe.



.

[Lovey80]

Charlie you are a champion, yeh mate thats where i had planned to mount it but must reconsider after your very valid points. The position you suggested would have been my first choice but there is a live bait tank that sits right inside the transom and almost hard up against it so bolting will be a problem. The other side has the battery compartment in that spot. Would you recommend purchasing the DR and taking it to someone to weld a bracket in that position to fit? As far as original rod holders there is one f'ard of the bollard you can see on the back corner and one that mounts on the rail just forward of that.

Cheers Charlie keep the ideas comming.

Chris

[Lovey80]

Charlie i had a look at the site, do you think that getting the rail mount will work by mounting on the handrail? Although it's not parallel do you think that would be a problem?

Cheers Chris

[charleville]

Would you recommend purchasing the DR and taking it to someone to weld a bracket in that position to fit?

Chris - Given your problems with screwing bolts through your transom, I suppose that welding would be the way to go. I cannot comment much but a welder may be able to offer advice.



Charlie i had a look at the site, do you think that getting the rail mount will work by mounting on the handrail? Although it's not parallel do you think that would be a problem?

Chris - i am not sure that I understand the question. What is not parallel, please? The handrail is not parallel with the side of the boat???

I would not have a clue. Have only ever seen the rail mounting fixtures in the Scotty pictures but it looks OK to me...

http://myskitch.com/charleville/rail_mount-20070731-095254.jpg

[Lovey80]

Yeh the hand rail comming from the top of the transom to the back of the rear step is angled slightly downwards. Can you see a problem with using the rail mount here? If that is a viable option then using the current rod holder at the rear corner will be possible

Cheers Chris

[charleville]

Yeh the hand rail comming from the top of the transom to the back of the rear step is angled slightly downwards. Can you see a problem with using the rail mount here?

Chris - I would not think that there would be a problem. No problem with the angle of the boom over the side for sure. The end pulley will swivel through 360 degrees so it makes no difference what angle the boom is at ...

http://myskitch.com/charleville/iphoto-20070731-145534.jpg

(clearly, I need to rinse the salt off mine :-[ ;D )


Looking at the DR rail holder, it looks like the bit of wood sits on the outside of the rail to ensure that the DR has something solid to lever against. The only frigging around that you would need to do, if any, I think is just with the piece of wood which, I think, is something that you add to the fitting anyway.

I note from the internet that the rail mounts sell for about USD $42 which even after conversion to Aussie $ sounds not to bad to me compared with what a welded bracket might cost.

Remember though that I have only had experience with my own DR which is screwed to my boat - ie I am not an expert in other mounting arrangements. Actually, I am not an expert in anything much. ;D ;D ;D

[Lovey80]

Thanks Charlie, I ordered mine last night and once it gets here i'll size it up to what will work best. I think I may just buy the rail mount in Australia surely the mark up isnt as bad as the DR itself. If it works out how I want it i'll consider buying a second for the other side. On Friday night I was fishing in some very fast running tide and was having trouble getting the bait to the bottom as i was anchored up a DR would have been perfect.

Thanks again for all your help I'll post some photo's once i get it mounted in a week or so.

Cheers Chris

[Steve Jassid]

Lovey 80 - I note your comment. Thanks Charlie, I ordered mine last night and once it gets here i'll size it up to what will work best. I think I may just buy the rail mount in Australia surely the mark up isnt as bad as the DR itself. If it works out how I want it i'll consider buying a second for the other side.

Just a suggestion...... My tinnie is at a local Aluminimum Bull Bar Builders.. having custom job......... the price you pay for buying Scotty mounts in Oz is, I think still a bit pricey.. why not try custom job that realy works for you! any local manufacturer types may deliver wot you need perhaps?

[Lovey80]

Thanks steve, is it a mount you are getting made for the downrigger? If so what were you quoted for the job. The down rigger just turned upso im keen to get it mounted. I'm very impressed with the whole process from Cabelas and would recommend them to anyone. 6 days and it was at my door thats including the weekend.

Cheers Chris

[Steve Jassid]

Hey Chris..... My tinnie is being fitted out with new gunnels by a guy who manufactures aluminium bull bars, etc. for a few big truck sales and transport companies. He also knows boats. I was thinking more along the lines of taking a template of the mounting supplied with the scotty... and having a 'gimble mount' manufactured to fit rod holders insitu ... possible pay less and end up with custom job that alleviates any pain with retro fitted and factory fitted gear thats insitu............. just a thought.... I have plenty of em'..... specially in winter Steve